Black tea has been renowned for centuries as a potent source of powerful antioxidants. This Black Tea Cold Process Soap recipe harnesses those properties by replacing water with black tea. It’s also scented with the new Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil. The fragrance is a complex blend of smoky tea leaves and bright bergamot with a subtle base of amber. It’s a fantastic uni-sex fragrance oil.

If you’ve never replaced water in your recipe with tea, it’s easier than you think. Simply brew the tea, allow it to cool and mix in the lye like you would with water. The lye solution will become a dark brown, so this recipe contains titanium dioxide to lighten the color. Purple Brazilian clay adds a natural purple hue, while activated charcoal gives a deep grey color.

Because this recipe does contain plenty of titanium dioxide, it has a 20% water discount. The first time we made the soap without a water discount, we got a lot of glycerin rivers (Learn more about glycerin rivers here.) The water discount — or in this case, tea discount — eliminated them completely. The discount also helps to achieve a thick, easy-to-layer texture.

What You Need:
5 Pound Mold with Sliding Bottom
Silicone Liner for 5 Pound Mold
2.7 oz. Cocoa Butter (5%)
13.5 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)
2.7 oz. Matcha Green Tea Butter (5%)
16.2 oz. Olive Oil (30%)
13.5 oz. Palm Oil (25%)
5.4 oz. Sweet Almond Oil (10%)
14.3 oz. Brewed Black Tea (20% water discount)
7.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
2 oz. Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide
Activated Charcoal
Purple Brazilian Clay
Black Tea Leaves (for the top & to brew tea)
Large Sealable Tea Bag (for brewing tea)

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made cold process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. Or if you’d prefer to read, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap.To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 3 teaspoon of the colorant into 3 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Disperse 1 teaspoon of activated charcoal into 1 tablespoon of liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to work out any clumps. Then, disperse 3 teaspoons of purple Brazilian clay into 3 tablespoons of distilled water. Because clays absorb moisture, we recommend dispersing them in water rather than oil. Use a mini mixer or small spoon to disperse the clay.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2 ounces of Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil into a glass container that is safe for use with fragrance oil. Set aside.

BLACK TEA PREP:  First, boil 16 ounces distilled water to prepare the tea. It’s best to prep more tea than you need, because you will lose some during the steeping process. Add 4 tablespoons of black tea into the Large Sealable Tea Bag. If you’d like the tea to be stronger or lighter, you can use more or less tea. Iron the tea bag closed, and place in the hot distilled water.

Allow the tea to steep and cool for about 1 hour. Remove the tea bag and wait for the tea to cool to about 70 ° F. The cooler the mixture, the lighter the color of the lye mixture will be.If you’d like, you can also freeze the tea and add the lye to the frozen tea, similar to adding lye to milk, as shown here.

Measure out 14.3 ounces of tea. If you don’t have enough, add more distilled water. Save the tea leaves to place on top of the soap if you’d like. Place them on a paper towel to dry until you’re ready to use.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the black tea and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved. The mixture will be a brown color. Do not panic. That’s what the titanium dioxide is for. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Fully melt the coconut oil, olive oil, cocoa butter, matcha green tea butter, sweet almond oil, and palm oil. Remember to fully melt and then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye to the oils and stick blend until you have a thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 3.5 tsp. of sodium lactate.

THREE: Once you reach a very thin trace, add all the Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil. It’s okay to add the fragrance at the beginning because it behaves very well in soap.

FOUR: Split off about 26 ounces of soap into a separate container. Add 2 teaspoons of dispersed activated charcoal, and use a whisk to fully mix in. Set aside.

FIVE: Add all the dispersed titanium dioxide into the large amount of remaining soap. Use the stick blender to fully incorporate the titanium dioxide. Then split the batch in half. Each should weigh about 26 ounces. Add all the dispersed purple Brazilian clay to one container. Use the stick blender to incorporate the clay. Leave the other container of soap uncolored.

SIX: Now it’s time to start layering! First, make sure all the colors of soap are a medium to thick trace.  Stick blend each from lightest to darkest until a medium to thick texture is achieved. Because they all have different amounts of various colorants, they may thicken at different rates.

SEVEN: Once you’re happy with the texture of each color, pour half of the uncolored soap into the mold and use a spoon to even it throughout the mold. Use the spoon to give the layer texture, because this design does not need exact straight layers.

EIGHT: Pour half of the black soap onto the white. Be careful not to let the black soap fall through the first layer of white. Use a spoon to gently cover the white soap. Use the spoon to spread it evenly, and to give it texture.

NINE: Cover the black soap with half of the purple soap. Again, use a spoon to spread it evenly and create texture. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help evenly disperse the soap and get rid of bubbles.

TEN: Continue to layer the soap into the mold with the same color sequence: white soap, black soap, purple soap. Use up all of the remaining soap for the second layer.

ELEVEN: Once the last of the purple soap is poured into the soap, use a spoon to mound the soap in the center and create peaks. There is no right or wrong way to do this, so just have fun with it!

TWELVE: Once you’re happy with the top, sprinkle the used black tea leaves down the center of the soap. Lightly press them (with gloves on) into the soap to help them stick once cut. Spritz the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Because this soap has a tendency to form glycerin rivers, keep it cool. Do not cover or insulate. If you live in a hot climate, consider placing the soap in the fridge or freezer for several hours to keep it cool. After about 2-3 days, unmold the soap and cut into bars. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks. Because it does have a heavy water discount, 4 weeks should do the trick. Enjoy!

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Black Tea Soap Tutorial

This soap is made with black tea in place of water, and is topped with black tea leaves.

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 5 Pound Mold with Sliding Bottom
• Silicone Liner for 5 Pound Mold
• 2.7 oz. Cocoa Butter 5%
• 13.5 oz. Coconut Oil 25%
• 2.7 oz. Matcha Green Tea Butter 5%
• 16.2 oz. Olive Oil 30%
• 13.5 oz. Palm Oil 25%
• 5.4 oz. Sweet Almond Oil 10%
• 14.3 oz. Brewed Black Tea 20% water discount
• 7.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 2 oz. Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil
• Titanium Dioxide
• Activated Charcoal
• Purple Brazilian Clay
• Black Tea Leaves for the top & to brew tea
• Large Sealable Tea Bag for brewing tea

Instructions

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap.To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 3 teaspoon of the colorant into 3 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Disperse 1 teaspoon of activated charcoal into 1 tablespoon of liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to work out any clumps. Then, disperse 3 teaspoons of purple Brazilian clay into 3 tablespoons of distilled water. Because clays absorb moisture, we recommend dispersing them in water rather than oil. Use a mini mixer or small spoon to disperse the clay.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2 ounces of Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil into a glass container that is safe for use with fragrance oil. Set aside.

BLACK TEA PREP: First, boil 16 ounces distilled water to prepare the tea. It’s best to prep more tea than you need, because you will lose some during the steeping process. Add 4 tablespoons of black tea into the Large Sealable Tea Bag. If you’d like the tea to be stronger or lighter, you can use more or less tea. Iron the tea bag closed, and place in the hot distilled water.<br>Allow the tea to steep and cool for about 1 hour. Remove the tea bag and wait for the tea to cool to about 70 ° F. The cooler the mixture, the lighter the color of the lye mixture will be.If you’d like, you can also freeze the tea and add the lye to the frozen tea, similar to adding lye to milk, as shown here.<br>Measure out 14.3 ounces of tea. If you don’t have enough, add more distilled water. Save the tea leaves to place on top of the soap if you’d like. Place them on a paper towel to dry until you’re ready to use.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the black tea and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved. The mixture will be a brown color. Do not panic. That’s what the titanium dioxide is for. Set aside to cool.
• Fully melt the coconut oil, olive oil, cocoa butter, matcha green tea butter, sweet almond oil, and palm oil. Remember to fully melt and then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye to the oils and stick blend until you have a thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 3.5 tsp. of sodium lactate.
• Once you reach a very thin trace, add all the Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil. It’s okay to add the fragrance at the beginning because it behaves very well in soap.
• Split off about 26 ounces of soap into a separate container. Add 2 teaspoons of dispersed activated charcoal, and use a whisk to fully mix in. Set aside.
• Add all the dispersed titanium dioxide into the large amount of remaining soap. Use the stick blender to fully incorporate the titanium dioxide. Then split the batch in half. Each should weigh about 26 ounces. Add all the dispersed purple Brazilian clay to one container. Use the stick blender to incorporate the clay. Leave the other container of soap uncolored.
• Now it’s time to start layering! First, make sure all the colors of soap are a medium to thick trace. Stick blend each from lightest to darkest until a medium to thick texture is achieved. Because they all have different amounts of various colorants, they may thicken at different rates.
• Once you’re happy with the texture of each color, pour half of the uncolored soap into the mold and use a spoon to even it throughout the mold. Use the spoon to give the layer texture, because this design does not need exact straight layers.
• Pour half of the black soap onto the white. Be careful not to let the black soap fall through the first layer of white. Use a spoon to gently cover the white soap. Use the spoon to spread it evenly, and to give it texture.
• Cover the black soap with half of the purple soap. Again, use a spoon to spread it evenly and create texture. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help evenly disperse the soap and get rid of bubbles.
• Continue to layer the soap into the mold with the same color sequence: white soap, black soap, purple soap. Use up all of the remaining soap for the second layer.
• Once the last of the purple soap is poured into the soap, use a spoon to mound the soap in the center and create peaks. There is no right or wrong way to do this, so just have fun with it!
• Once you’re happy with the top, sprinkle the used black tea leaves down the center of the soap. Lightly press them (with gloves on) into the soap to help them stick once cut. Spritz the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Because this soap has a tendency to form glycerin rivers, keep it cool. Do not cover or insulate. If you live in a hot climate, consider placing the soap in the fridge or freezer for several hours to keep it cool. After about 2-3 days, unmold the soap and cut into bars. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks. Because it does have a heavy water discount, 4 weeks should do the trick. Enjoy!

The post Black Tea Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

Usually clay masks are designed for oily skin. Because clay absorbs oil, it’s a natural fit. This Lavender Clay Face Mask was specifically formulated for dry and sensitive skin. Don’t let the list of ingredients intimidate you – it’s surprisingly easy to make! Transforming the clay, water and oil into a luxurious mask is a satisfying and rewarding creative process.

This Lavender Clay Mask recipe contains a luxurious blend of argan and avocado oil to moisturize the skin. Argan oil is well known for its nourishing properties, and contains high percentages of vitamins A and E. The oils and distilled water are mixed together with Polawax Emulsifying Wax and BTMS-50 Conditioning Wax. These emulsifiers create a smooth, creamy, lotion-like texture, and prevent separation of the oil and water.

A mixture of kaolin and purple Brazilian clay is added to the water and oils. The majority of the clay in this mask is kaolin clay, which is very fine and gentle. Purple Brazilian clay adds a beautiful color and helps create a thicker mask. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil adds a light scent, but can be omitted if your skin is extremely sensitive. Evening primrose extract adds skin-loving properties, but can easily be swapped for any other extract you may prefer. Find out more about extracts here.

Overall, this mask has a lotion-like texture that spreads easily on the skin. Because it’s formulated with dry skin in mind, it contains a fairly small amount of clay. If you apply a very thin layer to the skin, you’ll find that after about 10 minutes it will dry. But if a heavier application is used, it may not fully dry and will continue to have a wet, lotion feel. If you prefer the mask to fully dry on the skin, increase the amount of total clay in the recipe to about 6 ounces.

A few notes about recipe substitutions and changes:

• Polawax Emulsifying Wax is a highly reliable and strong emulsifier. It could be substituted for the generic version, Emulsifying Wax, if you prefer, although this recipe was not tested with Emulsifying Wax. Due to the clay in the recipe, we splurged and used Polawax Emulsifying Wax to avoid any chance of separation.
• This recipe calls for avocado and argan oil. Other oils can be used instead if you prefer; we recommend staying with liquid oils that absorb easily into the skin. Changing the total amount of oil in the recipe will change the overall texture of the mask.
• Because this recipe is essentially a lotion and contains a large amount of water, a preservative is necessary to prevent mold and bacterial growth. We chose Optiphen, but other water soluble preservatives will work. Learn more about preservatives here.
• Increase the total amount of clay if you want it to be better suited for normal to oily skin types. Decreasing the amount of clay may create a thinner product with more moisturizing properties.
• If you prefer to use different clays, feel free to swap them. Clays have different absorbing properties, which will affect how it feels on the skin. Learn which clay is right for your skin.
• If you have very sensitive skin, fragrance and essential oils can be irritating. Omit from the recipe if you prefer.

What You’ll Need:
Four Short 8 oz. Bail Jars 
21.4 oz. Distilled Water
1 oz. Argan Oil
1.3 oz. Avocado Oil 
1 oz. Polawax Emulsifying Wax
0.8 oz. BTMS-50 Conditioning Wax
3.5 oz. Kaolin Clay
1 oz. Purple Brazilian Clay
2 mL Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
0.5 oz. Evening Primrose Extract
0.2 oz. Optiphen
Clay Mask Template – Free Downloadable PDF

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

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EQUIPMENT PREP: Disinfect your utensils by dipping them in a 5% bleach water solution and allowing to dry. This includes mixing containers, your stick blender, and any spoons or spatulas that may come in contact with your mask. Your products must be as free of germs, bacteria, and microbes as possible. To be safe, bleach water all your utensils.

CLAY PREP: In a small separate container, measure 3.5 ounces of kaolin clay and 1 ounce of purple Brazilian clay. If you like, you can add them to the same container. In the steps below I added them separately, but the purple Brazilian clay can be added along with the kaolin clay if you prefer.

ONE: In a heat-safe container, combine the avocado oil, argan oil, BTMS-50 and Polawax. Heat the container in the microwave using 30-60 second bursts until the waxes have fully melted. Be careful when removing the container, as it will be quite hot. Set aside.

TWO: In a separate large container, heat the distilled water in the microwave (or on the stove top) until it reaches about 160-170 ° F. Once the water reaches the correct temperature, some of it may evaporate. Remeasure and add more distilled water if necessary until you have 21.4 ounces of hot water.

THREE: Check the temperatures of both containers. Each container should be about 160°-180° F. If the oil and wax mixture has cooled, place back into the microwave until fully melted. Place the stick blender into the water and burp it to help get rid of bubbles. Pour the oil and wax mixture into the water and use a spatula to make sure every little bit is added. Begin pulsing the stick blender. The mixture will take on a “milky” appearance once the water, oil and waxes have begun to emulsify. Continue to pulse and stir for about a minute.

FOUR: Begin adding heaping spoonfuls of the kaolin clay (or the kaolin clay and purple Brazilian Clay mixture) and pulsing the stick blender until combined. Continue adding the clay to the mixture and blending in small amounts until all the clay is added.

FIVE: Continue stick blending for about 1-2 minutes. Use a spatula to scrape down any clay that may be on the sides of the bowl. Check the temperature of the mixture. Once the mixture is about 130-140°F, add the Optiphen, Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil and primrose extract. Stick blend (don’t forget to burp the stick blender!) the ingredients in until fully mixed.

SIX: If not already added, add the purple Brazilian clay and stick blend until the mixture is fully blended. Continue to stick blend for several more minutes, just to make sure the ingredients are fully emulsified.

SEVEN: Pour the mixture into the bail jars. If you find you have a lot of bubbles on the top, you can spritz the top of the containers with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help get rid of some of them. Allow the containers to cool for several hours with the lid open to avoid condensation. Once fully cooled, the mixture will have become a thick, lotion-like texture. We found that the top of the mask does form a bit of a skin as it dries.

To use, apply a medium layer to dry, clean skin. Avoid the immediate eye area. Allow the mask to sit on the skin for about 10-15 minutes. Use warm water to rinse off. There is no need to wash the skin after, but you can if you prefer. For drier skins, do no use more than one time per week.

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DIY Lavender Clay Face Mask

This Lavender Clay Mask is great for dry skin. It's formulated with argan oil, primrose extract and lavender essential oil.

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Cook Time 20 minutes minutes

Total Time 30 minutes minutes

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Four Short 8 oz. Bail Jars
• 21.4 oz. Distilled Water
• 1 oz. Argan Oil
• 1.3 oz. Avocado Oil
• 1 oz. Polawax Emulsifying Wax
• 0.8 oz. BTMS-50 Conditioning Wax
• 3.5 oz. Kaolin Clay
• 1 oz. Purple Brazilian Clay
• 2 mL Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
• 0.5 oz. Evening Primrose Extract
• 0.2 oz. Optiphen

Instructions

EQUIPMENT PREP: Disinfect your utensils by dipping them in a 5% bleach water solution and allowing to dry. This includes mixing containers, your stick blender, and any spoons or spatulas that may come in contact with your mask. Your products must be as free of germs, bacteria, and microbes as possible. To be safe, bleach water all your utensils.

CLAY PREP: In a small separate container, measure 3.5 ounces of kaolin clay and 1 ounce of purple Brazilian clay. If you like, you can add them to the same container. In the steps below I added them separately, but the purple Brazilian clay can be added along with the kaolin clay if you prefer.

• In a heat-safe container, combine the avocado oil, argan oil, BTMS-50 and Polawax. Heat the container in the microwave using 30-60 second bursts until the waxes have fully melted. Be careful when removing the container, as it will be quite hot. Set aside.
• In a separate large container, heat the distilled water in the microwave (or on the stove top) until it reaches about 160-170 ° F. Once the water reaches the correct temperature, some of it may evaporate. Remeasure and add more distilled water if necessary until you have 21.4 ounces of hot water.
• Check the temperatures of both containers. Each container should be about 160°-180° F. If the oil and wax mixture has cooled, place back into the microwave until fully melted. Place the stick blender into the water and burp it to help get rid of bubbles. Pour the oil and wax mixture into the water and use a spatula to make sure every little bit is added. Begin pulsing the stick blender. The mixture will take on a “milky” appearance once the water, oil and waxes have begun to emulsify. Continue to pulse and stir for about a minute.
• Begin adding heaping spoonfuls of the kaolin clay (or the kaolin clay and purple Brazilian Clay mixture) and pulsing the stick blender until combined. Continue adding the clay to the mixture and blending in small amounts until all the clay is added.
• Continue stick blending for about 1-2 minutes. Use a spatula to scrape down any clay that may be on the sides of the bowl. Check the temperature of the mixture. Once the mixture is about 130-140°F, add the Optiphen, Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil and primrose extract. Stick blend (don’t forget to burp the stick blender!) the ingredients in until fully mixed.
• If not already added, add the purple Brazilian clay and stick blend until the mixture is fully blended. Continue to stick blend for several more minutes, just to make sure the ingredients are fully emulsified.
• Pour the mixture into the bail jars. If you find you have a lot of bubbles on the top, you can spritz the top of the containers with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help get rid of some of them. Allow the containers to cool for several hours with the lid open to avoid condensation. Once fully cooled, the mixture will have become a thick, lotion-like texture. We found that the top of the mask does form a bit of a skin as it dries.
• To use, apply a medium layer to dry, clean skin. Avoid the immediate eye area. Allow the mask to sit on the skin for about 10-15 minutes. Use warm water to rinse off. There is no need to wash the skin after, but you can if you prefer. For drier skins, do no use more than one time per week.

The post DIY Lavender Clay Face Mask appeared first on Soap Queen.

Melted shea butter gives your bath water extra moisturizing properties. It also helps the bath bomb hold its shape. When making bath bombs, witch hazel is a great ingredient to have on hand. In order for the bath bomb to hold its shape, you must achieve a texture similar to wet sand, but adding water can set off the fizz reaction. Spritzing the dry mixture with witch hazel gives a moist, moldable texture without setting off the reaction. You can learn more about witch hazel in the Sunday Night Spotlight: Witch Hazel post.

What You’ll Need:
 3 cups Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda)
1.5 cups Citric Acid
1 oz. Shea Butter
1.5 tsp. Purple Brazilian Clay
1.5 tsp. Pink Brazilian Clay
6 mL Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
Lavender Buds, Grade 1
Witch Hazel
Stainless Steel Bath Bomb Mold

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE:  In a large bowl, combine sodium bicarbonate and citric acid. Use your hands or a mesh strainer to remove any clumps.

TWO: Once the mixture is smooth, place the shea butter into a heat safe container and melt in the microwave using 30 second bursts. Once completely melted, add to the citric acid and baking soda mixture. Use your hands to fully incorporate the butter into the dry ingredients.

THREE: Add the Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil, and use your hands or a spatula to fully incorporate the essential oil.

FOUR: Split the mixture evenly into three containers, it’s okay to eyeball it. To one container, add the pink Brazilian clay and use your hands or spatula to fully incorporate. To another container, add the purple Brazilian Clay and use your hands or spatula to fully mix in.

FIVE: Depending on the moisture level of the current mixture, spritz the bath bombs with witch hazel. It usually takes between 7-10 spritzes, and the mixture should be wet enough so when you squeeze the powder in your palm, it will stick together. If you don’t have witch hazel, adding extra shea butter will help the dry ingredients stick.

SIX: Once all the colors have reached a mold-able consistency, place a small amount of lavender buds into a half of the bath bomb mold. Just a pinch does the trick! Then place some white bath bomb mixture into the mold, covering the lavender buds. Fill the bath bomb mold about half way full with the white mixture.

SEVEN: Cover the white layer with the pink bath bomb mixture. Once full, set aside that half of the bath bomb mold.

EIGHT: Fill the other half of the bath bomb mold half way with purple bath bomb mixture and pack down. Fill the remainder of the mold with pink bath bomb mixture. Slightly overfill this half with the pink mixture, and squeeze the two halves of the mold together firmly.

NINE: Very gently, pull one half of the mold away. Slightly twisting while pulling away can make this process smoother. It can be a little tricky to get the fizzies to stick together…but practice makes perfect! If they do not stick together the first time, you can try again a few times if they begin to crumble.
TEN: Once one half of the mold is removed, you can leave the bomb in the mold for an hour or so to harden and then gently tip it over and remove the other half of the mold.

ELEVEN: Allow to harden for at least 24 hours. Then package in in cellophane or plastic wrap to protect them against excess moisture and enjoy!

What scent do you find particularly calming and relaxing? One of my favorites is the Relaxing Fragrance Oil, which is a blend of lavender, vanilla and musk.

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Lavender & Clay Mondo Bath Fizzy

Course Bath Fizzy

Servings 3 bath bombs

Ingredients

• 3 cups Sodium Bicarbonate baking soda
• 1.5 cups Citric Acid
• 1 oz. Shea Butter
• 1.5 tsp. Purple Brazilian Clay
• 1.5 tsp. Pink Brazilian Clay
• 6 mL Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
• Lavender Buds Grade 1
• Witch Hazel optional
• Stainless Steel Bath Bomb Mold

Instructions

• In a large bowl, combine sodium bicarbonate and citric acid. Use your hands or a mesh strainer to remove any clumps.
• Once the mixture is smooth, place the shea butter into a heat safe container and melt in the microwave using 30 second bursts. Once completely melted, add to the citric acid and baking soda mixture. Use your hands to fully incorporate the oils into the dry ingredients.
• Add the lavender 40/42 essential oil, and use your hands or a spatula to fully in the essential oil.
• Split the mixture evenly into three containers, it’s okay to eyeball it. To one container, add the pink Brazilian clay and use your hands or spatula to fully incorporate. To another container, add the purple Brazilian Clay and use your hands or spatula to fully mix in.
• Depending on the moisture level of the current mixture, spritz the bath bombs with witch hazel. It usually takes between 7-10 spritzes, and the mixture should be wet enough so when you squeeze the powder in your palm, it will stick together. If you don’t have witch hazel, adding extra shea butter will help the dry ingredients stick.
• Once all the colors have reached a mold-able consistency, place a small amount of lavender buds into a half of the bath bomb mold. Just a pinch does the trick! Then place some white bath bomb mixture into the mold, covering the lavender buds. Fill the bath bomb mold about half way full with the white mixture.
• Cover the white layer with the pink bath bomb mixture. Once full, set aside that half of the bath bomb mold.
• Fill the other half of the mold half way with purple bath bomb mixture and pack down. Fill the remainder of the mold with pink bath bomb mixture. Slightly overfill this half with the pink mixture, and squeeze the two halves of the mold together firmly.
• Very gently, pull one half of the mold away. Slightly twisting while pulling away can make this process smoother.
• Allow to harden for at least 24 hours. Then package in in cellophane or plastic wrap to protect them against excess moisture and enjoy!

The post Lavender & Clay Mondo Bath Fizzy appeared first on Soap Queen.