New Blueberry Thyme Fragrance Oil – part of the Farmers Market Collection – is inspired by artisan cocktails that blend sweet and savory elements. It has notes of lemon, Spanish rosemary, and vanilla. Those notes inspired the design in this cold process recipe.

A combination of red sandalwood powder and Caribbean Blue Mica create light and dark navy shades. The sandalwood powder adds speckles for a natural look. Between each layer there’s a titanium dioxide pencil line to add interest. Finally, a fork is used to create texture on top and it’s finished with blackberry seeds. 

Blueberry Thyme Fragrance Oil discolors to a light ivory. You’ll notice the soap in these photos look slightly green, while the final bars look more blue. This could be due to the fragrance oil or the sandalwood powder – we aren’t quite sure. This recipe uses a low fragrance oil usage rate to keep any discoloration to a minimum.

What You Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
1 oz. Castor Oil (2.9%)
8.7 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)
9.4 oz. Olive Oil (27%)
8.7 oz. Palm Oil (25%)
3.5 oz. Raspberry Seed Oil (10.1%)
3.5 oz. Sunflower Oil (10.1%)
4.9 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
10.4 oz. Distilled Water (10% water discount)
1.5 oz. Blueberry Thyme Fragrance Oil
Red Sandalwood Powder
Caribbean Blue Mica
Titanium Dioxide
Black Oxide
Blackberry Seeds

Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made cold process soap before, stop here. We highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on cold process soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Pure Soapmaking. You can also check out the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1.5 ounces of Blueberry Thyme Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

COLORANT PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of the titanium dioxide into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. In a separate container, mix 1 teaspoon of Caribbean Blue Mica into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. Finally, mix 1/2 teaspoon of black oxide with 1/2 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Have 2 teaspoons of red sandalwood powder nearby.
Optional: To ensure the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. 

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add 4.9 ounces of lye to 10.4 ounces of distilled water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.

TWO: Melt and combine 1 ounce of castor oil, 8.7 ounces of coconut oil, 9.4 ounces of olive oil, 8.7 ounces of palm oil, 3.5 ounces of sunflower oil, and 3.5 ounces of raspberry seed oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Add 2 teaspoons of red sandalwood powder directly into the oils. Use the stick blender to fully mix in and get rid of clumps.

THREE: Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend the mixture to a thin trace.

FOUR: Add the 1.5 ounces of Blueberry Thyme Fragrance Oil and all of the dispersed Caribbean Blue Mica into the entire batch of soap. Use a stick blender to mix them in.

FIVE: Split the batch in half equally – each container will be about 750 mL. Add 1/2 teaspoon dispersed black oxide to one container and 1 tablespoon of dispersed titanium dioxide to the other.

SIX: The soap batter needs to be a medium trace. If it’s still thin, pulse each container with the stick blender to thicken. It should be the texture of thick pudding.

SEVEN: Pour half of the light blue batter into the mold and tap on the counter to level the soap. Use a spoon to create divots down the length of the mold. That gives the layers an interesting and rustic shape.

EIGHT: Add a few teaspoons of titanium dioxide to a Powder Duster or mesh strainer and sprinkle a fine layer across the soap. Be careful to use a small amount of titanium dioxide or the soap may separate when cut.

NINE: Use a spoon to plop half of the dark blue soap on top of the light blue layer in the mold. Firmly tap the mold on the counter to help settle the soap and get rid of bubbles. Use a spoon to create divots down the length of the soap.

TEN: Dust another thin layer of titanium dioxide on top of the dark soap. Be careful to not make the layer too thick.

ELEVEN: Dollop the rest of the light blue soap into the mold, tap on the counter, use a spoon to create divots, and dust with a layer titanium dioxide.

TWELVE: Use a spoon to gently dollop the remaining dark blue soap into the mold. Tap firmly on the counter to get rid of bubbles. Use a fork to create texture down the entire length of the mold.

THIRTEEN: Sprinkle blackberry seeds in the center down the length of the mold. Spritz 99% isopropyl alcohol on the top of the soap to prevent soda ash.

FOURTEEN: This soap benefits from being lightly insulated. You can place the soap in a drawer or other small space to stay warm. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 2-3 days. Unmold and cut into bars.

We recommend flipping and cutting the soap on its side to prevent the seeds from creating drag marks. That also prevents the titanium dioxide from smearing across the bars. If this happens (it happened to ours!), gently wiping the bars with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a tissue can help clean them up. The Soap Shaver also helps. Once cut, allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy.

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Blueberry Thyme Soap Tutorial

This layered cold process design is inspired by new Blueberry Thyme Fragrance Oil.

Course Cold process soap

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Servings 3 pounds of soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 1 oz. Castor Oil 2.9%
• 8.7 oz. Coconut Oil 25%
• 9.4 oz. Olive Oil 27%
• 8.7 oz. Palm Oil 25%
• 3.5 oz. Raspberry Seed Oil 10.1%
• 3.5 oz. Sunflower Oil 10.1%
• 4.9 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 10.4 oz. Distilled Water 10% water discount
• 1.5 oz. Blueberry Thyme Fragrance Oil
• Red Sandalwood Powder
• Caribbean Blue Mica
• Titanium Dioxide
• Black Oxide
• Blackberry Seeds

Instructions

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1.5 ounces of Blueberry Thyme Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

COLORANT PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of the titanium dioxide into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. In a separate container, mix 1 teaspoon of Caribbean Blue Mica into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. Finally, mix 1/2 teaspoon of black oxide with 1/2 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Have 2 teaspoons of red sandalwood powder nearby. Optional: To ensure the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

• Slowly and carefully add 4.9 ounces of lye to 10.4 ounces of distilled water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
• Melt and combine 1 ounce of castor oil, 8.7 ounces of coconut oil, 9.4 ounces of olive oil, 8.7 ounces of palm oil, 3.5 ounces of sunflower oil, and 3.5 ounces of raspberry seed oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Add 2 teaspoons of red sandalwood powder directly into the oils. Use the stick blender to fully mix in and get rid of clumps.
• Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend the mixture to a thin trace.
• Add the 1.5 ounces of Blueberry Thyme Fragrance Oil and all of the dispersed Caribbean Blue Mica into the entire batch of soap. Use a stick blender to mix them in.
• Split the batch in half equally – each container will be about 750 mL. Add 1/2 teaspoon dispersed black oxide to one container and 1 tablespoon of dispersed titanium dioxide to the other.
• The soap batter needs to be a medium trace. If it’s still thin, pulse each container with the stick blender to thicken. It should be the texture of thick pudding.
• Pour half of the light blue batter into the mold and tap on the counter to level the soap. Use a spoon to create divots down the length of the mold. That gives the layers an interesting and rustic shape.
• Add a few teaspoons of titanium dioxide to a Powder Duster or mesh strainer and sprinkle a fine layer across the soap. Be careful to use a small amount of titanium dioxide or the soap may separate when cut.
• Use a spoon to plop half of the dark blue soap on top of the light blue layer in the mold. Firmly tap the mold on the counter to help settle the soap and get rid of bubbles. Use a spoon to create divots down the length of the soap.
• Dust another thin layer of titanium dioxide on top of the dark soap. Be careful to not make the layer too thick.
• Dollop the rest of the light blue soap into the mold, tap on the counter, use a spoon to create divots, and dust with a layer titanium dioxide.
• Use a spoon to gently dollop the remaining dark blue soap into the mold. Tap firmly on the counter to get rid of bubbles. Use a fork to create texture down the entire length of the mold.
• Sprinkle blackberry seeds in the center down the length of the mold. Spritz 99% isopropyl alcohol on the top of the soap to prevent soda ash. This soap benefits from being lightly insulated. You can place the soap in a drawer or other small space to stay warm. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 2-3 days. Unmold and cut into bars.
• We recommend flipping and cutting the soap on its side to prevent the seeds from creating drag marks. That also prevents the titanium dioxide from smearing across the bars. If this happens (it happened to ours!), gently wiping the bars with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a tissue can help clean them up. The Soap Shaver also helps. Once cut, allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy.

The post Blueberry Thyme Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

Gold and pink is a sophisticated color combination. It feels appropriate for the holidays, but also shines for Valentine’s Day and spring. That color combination inspired this soap, which is topped with Gold Sparkle Mica and pink sea salt. The colors also make an appearance inside the bar with a pink layer and gold mica line.

We scented the batch with Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil. It’s a bright combination of grapefruit, jasmine, and traditional rose notes. It does slightly accelerate, but that works well for the layered design and textured top. The pink sea salt is sprinkled on top for texture and color. Gently pressing the salt into the soap helps the salt stick, but some will fall off when cut.

To achieve a nice white color, we added plenty of titanium dioxide. When a large amount of titanium dioxide is used it can lead to glycerin rivers – learn more about them here. One of the best ways to prevent glycerin rivers is to use a water discount. That can lead to trace thickening more quickly, so use your stick blender sparingly for this recipe.

What You Need:
Tall 12″ Silicone Loaf Mold
Powder Duster
1.8 oz. Cocoa Butter (5%)
11.6 oz. Coconut Oil (33%)
3.2 oz. Meadowfoam Oil (9.1%)
11.6 oz. Palm Oil (33%)
7 oz. Rice Bran Oil (19.9%)
5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
10 oz. Distilled Water (13% water discount)
1.75 oz. Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide
Magenta Mica
Gold Sparkle Mica
Pink Sea Salt, Medium

Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made cold process soap before, stop here. We highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on cold process soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Pure Soapmaking. You can also check out the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1.75 ounces of Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

COLORANT PREP: Disperse 4 teaspoons of the titanium dioxide into 4 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. In a separate container, mix 1/2 teaspoon of Magenta Mica into 1/2 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. Have the Gold Sparkle Mica and pink sea salt nearby.
Optional: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. This is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. To micronize the colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. 

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add 5 ounces of lye to 10 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.

TWO: In a large glass bowl, combine and melt the coconut oil, cocoa butter, rice bran oil, meadowfoam oil, and palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Add all of the dispersed titanium dioxide to the oils and use a stick blender to fully mix in. This helps get rid of any chunks without thickening trace.

THREE: Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until a very thin trace.

FOUR: Pour 600 mL of the soap batter into a separate container.

FIVE: Add 1 teaspoon of the dispersed Magenta Mica into the smaller container of soap and use a whisk to fully incorporate.

SIX: Add the Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil proportionally to each container of soap – it’s okay to eyeball it. Whisk in the fragrance oil thoroughly.

SEVEN: If the pink soap is still thin, use the stick blender to thicken trace. Once it’s a medium to thick trace, pour all of the pink soap into the mold and tap it on the counter to remove air bubbles. Use a spoon to create texture.

EIGHT: Place a few teaspoons of the Gold Sparkle Mica into the Powder Duster. Sprinkle a layer of the mica on top of the pink soap, making sure to cover as much of the pink as possible. Be careful to not create too thick of a layer or the soap may separate when cut.

NINE: By now, the white soap will be thick. Use a spoon to “plop” small amounts of it onto the pink until it’s completely covered. Then, gently transfer the rest of the white soap into the mold. Firmly tap the mold on the counter to help settle the soap and get rid of bubbles.

TEN: Use a small spoon to create texture on top. If you find the soap is not holding its shape, let it sit in the mold for several minutes to allow it to thicken and harden. We created a “wave” look by pushing the white soap toward one side. Feel free to create whatever top you like – there is no right or wrong way to create texture.

ELEVEN: Once you’re happy with the top, lightly sprinkle more Gold Sparkle Mica on the top of the soap using the Powder Duster.

TWELVE: Sprinkle the pink sea salt onto the soap. We concentrated the pink sea salt on the peak. Some of the salt will fall off when the soap is cut, so we like to use a little more salt to account for this.

THIRTEEN: Spritz the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. To very lightly insulate the soap, we placed the loaf into a large drawer uncovered at room temperature. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for about 2-3 days.

Pull the silicone mold away from the soap, and push it out from the bottom to release the airlock. To avoid drag marks from the salt, place the soap on its side and cut. Allow the bars to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.

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Pink Salt & Gold Cold Process Soap DIY

This sophisticated pink and gold soap feels appropriate for the holidays, but also shines for Valentine’s Day and spring.

Course Cold process soap

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Servings 3 pounds of soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Tall 12″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• Powder Duster
• 1.8 oz. Cocoa Butter 5%
• 11.6 oz. Coconut Oil 33%
• 3.2 oz. Meadowfoam Oil 9.1%
• 11.6 oz. Palm Oil 33%
• 7 oz. Rice Bran Oil 19.9%
• 5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 10 oz. Distilled Water 13% water discount
• 1.75 oz. Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil
• Titanium Dioxide
• Magenta Mica
• Gold Sparkle Mica
• Pink Sea Salt Medium

Instructions

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1.75 ounces of Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

COLORANT PREP: Disperse 4 teaspoons of the titanium dioxide into 4 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. In a separate container, mix 1/2 teaspoon of Magenta Mica into 1/2 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. Have the Gold Sparkle Mica and pink sea salt nearby. Optional: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. This is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. To micronize the colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

• Slowly and carefully add 5 ounces of lye to 10 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
• In a large glass bowl, combine and melt the coconut oil, cocoa butter, rice bran oil, meadowfoam oil, and palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Add all of the dispersed titanium dioxide to the oils and use a stick blender to fully mix in. This helps get rid of any chunks without thickening trace.
• Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until a very thin trace.
• Pour 600 mL of the soap batter into a separate container.
• Add 1 teaspoon of the dispersed Magenta Mica into the smaller container of soap and use a whisk to fully incorporate.
• Add the Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil proportionally to each container of soap – it’s okay to eyeball it. Whisk in the fragrance oil thoroughly.
• If the pink soap is still thin, use the stick blender to thicken trace. Once it’s a medium to thick trace, pour all of the pink soap into the mold and tap it on the counter to remove air bubbles. Use a spoon to create texture.
• Place a few teaspoons of the Gold Sparkle Mica into the Powder Duster. Sprinkle a layer of the mica on top of the pink soap, making sure to cover as much of the pink as possible. Be careful to not create too thick of a layer or the soap may separate when cut.
• By now, the white soap will be thick. Use a spoon to “plop” small amounts of it onto the pink until it’s completely covered. Then, gently transfer the rest of the white soap into the mold. Firmly tap the mold on the counter to help settle the soap and get rid of bubbles.
• Use a small spoon to create texture on top. If you find the soap is not holding its shape, let it sit in the mold for several minutes to allow it to thicken and harden. We created a “wave” look by pushing the white soap toward one side. Feel free to create whatever top you like – there is no right or wrong way to create texture.
• Once you’re happy with the top, lightly sprinkle more Gold Sparkle Mica on the top of the soap using the Powder Duster.
• Sprinkle the pink sea salt onto the soap. We concentrated the pink sea salt on the peak. Some of the salt will fall off when the soap is cut, so we like to use a little more salt to account for this.
• Spritz the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. To very lightly insulate the soap, we placed the loaf into a large drawer uncovered at room temperature. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for about 2-3 days.
• Pull the silicone mold away from the soap, and push it out from the bottom to release the airlock. To avoid drag marks from the salt, place the soap on its side and cut. Allow the bars to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.

The post Pink Salt & Gold Cold Process Soap DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

Nature is full of inspiration. This Cactus Flower Soap was inspired by the colors and textures of a blooming cactus, along with our new Cactus Flower Fragrance Oil. It’s fresh and green take on a floral scent, with notes of violet petals, lemon, and white musk. It behaves wonderfully in soap and gives these bars the perfect floral scent.

This beautiful photograph led us in designing the colors, layers, and textures of this soap. The first layer is created using Bright Blue Jean Colorant, with poppy seeds to mimic the texture of a cactus. An activated charcoal line separates the white and blue layers. Finally, green melt and pour embeds and soap “flowers” add color and interest.

The melt and pour embeds do need to be created several hours in advance to allow them to cool and harden. We recommend using LCP White Melt and Pour Soap Base when embedding into cold process soap. LCP stands for “like cold process” and refers to melt and pour soap that contains less glycerin. It melts at a slightly higher temperature, which helps prevent some morphing or melting if the soap goes through a hot gel phase. LCP bases are also less likely to develop glycerin dew.

This recipe should be kept cool to prevent the embeds from melting. A slightly lower soaping temperature will also prevent glycerin rivers from forming in the white layer. This recipe does use a 10% water discount to further prevent glycerin rivers. Lower soaping temperatures also help achieve a thicker texture and prevent the soap flowers from melting. If you live in a very hot climate, you’ll probably want to place this soap in the fridge for several hours.

What You’ll Need:
Embeds
7 oz. LCP White Melt and Pour Base
Chrome Green Color Block

Base
5 Pound Mold with Sliding Bottom
Silicone Liner for 5 lb Wood Mold
65 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
9.3 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
19.3 oz. Distilled Water (10% water discount)
4 oz. Cactus Flower Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide
Bright Blue Jean Colorant
Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant
Fizzy Lemonade Colorant
Green Chrome Oxide
2 tsp. Activated Charcoal
2 tsp. Poppy Seeds
1M Frosting Tip
Disposable Frosting Bag
Powder Duster

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

Make the Embeds:

ONE: Chop and melt 7 ounces LCP White Melt and Pour Soap in the microwave using 15-second bursts. Add shavings of the Chrome Green Color Block to achieve a soft green color. Pour the soap into a mold of your choice. The exact shape is not super important because the soap will be chopped into small pieces. We used the 12 Cavity Rectangle Silicone Mold and filled up two cavities. Wait for the bars to cool and harden.

TWO: Once the melt and pour has fully cooled and hardened, remove from the mold. Use a sharp, non-serrated knife to chop the soap into long, rectangle pieces. The exact size of each embed is up to you. Set pieces of soap aside until you’re ready to use.

Make the Base

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also check out the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 4 teaspoons of the colorant into 4 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Then in separate containers, disperse 1/2 teaspoon Fizzy Lemonade Colorant, Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant and Chrome Green Oxide into 1/2 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. The disperse 1 teaspoon Bright Blue Jean Colorant into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to help get rid of any clumps.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 4 ounces of Cactus Flower into a glass, fragrance oil safe container. Set aside.

MOLD & TOOL PREP: Insert the silicone liner into the wood mold.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Fully melt the entire bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until completely clear with no cloudiness. Shake the bag to mix up all the oils. Measure 65 oz. into your soaping bowl. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 4 tsp. sodium lactate.

THREE: Once you’ve reached a thin trace, add all the Cactus Flower Fragrance Oil to the batter. Use your stick blender to stir in the fragrance and then use short bursts to further incorporate.

FOUR: Pour 200 mL of soap into two separate containers. To one container, add 1/2 teaspoon dispersed Fizzy Lemonade Colorant. To the other, add 1/2 teaspoon dispersed Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant. Use a whisk or spoon to fully incorporate the colors. Set the soap aside.

FIVE: Pour 30 ounces of uncolored soap into a separate container. To this container, add 1 tablespoon of the dispersed Bright Blue Jean Colorant and 1/8 teaspoon dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Use the stick blender to mix in the colorants. If the soap is still at thin trace, stick blend until you reach medium trace.

SIX: Whisk 2 teaspoons of poppy seeds into the blue soap.

SEVEN: Pour all of the blue soap into the mold. Tap the mold on the counter firmly to release air bubbles. If the soap is thick enough to hold its shape, slide a spoon down the length of the mold several times to create a wavy texture in the soap.
NOTE: If the soap is not holding its shape, allow it to thicken in the mold and proceed to step nine. After mixing the white soap, return to this step to create texture and create the mica line. 

EIGHT: Put a few teaspoons of activated charcoal into the powder duster. Lightly dust the charcoal onto the blue soap. Apply only a light layer to the soap, or the layers may separate once cut. Set the mold aside.

NINE: To the remaining soap, add all of the dispersed titanium dioxide. Adding the extra oil will cause the trace to thin. The soap needs to be a thick texture to support the embeds. Use the stick blender to thicken the soap, and then pour it into the mold. Save a small amount of white soap for the next step. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help disperse any bubbles. Use the back of a small spoon to spread the soap evenly into the mold.

TEN: Begin placing the melt and pour embeds into the soap. We placed ours randomly, but you can concentrate the pieces on the side of the soap flowers if you’d like. Continue inserting pieces until the entire soap is filled. Use the small amount of your leftover white soap to cover the green pieces. Use a spoon to smooth the top.

ELEVEN: Transfer the yellow soap into the pink soap, and use a spoon to very gently stir them together. Don’t mix the colors together completely.

TWELVE: Cut off the tip of the disposable frosting bag and insert the frosting tip. Test the consistency of the pink and yellow soap. It should be a thick trace, and able to hold its shape. If it’s not thick enough, let the soap sit in the container for 5-10 minutes and check the consistency again. We waited about 15 minutes for the soap to thicken before piping the flowers.

THIRTEEN: Once the soap is thick enough to pipe, transfer it into the frosting bag. Pipe little flowers down the length of the mold, concentrating them on one side. If you’d like, you can space them out, placing a flower in the center of each bar. Once you’re done piping flowers, pipe the leftover soap onto a silicone mold or onto any nonstick surface.

FOURTEEN: Spritz the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Because you don’t want the flowers or melt and pour embeds to melt, keep this soap in a cool area. Don’t cover and insulate. If you live in a hot climate, you can place the mold into the fridge for about 3-4 hours. Then remove the soap to sit and harden overnight. After about 2-3 days, unmold the soap and cut into bars. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy!

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Cactus Flower Soap Tutorial

This fun and funky soap is inspired by cactus flowers.

Course Cold process soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 7 oz. LCP White Melt and Pour Base
• Chrome Green Color Block
• 5 Pound Mold with Sliding Bottom
• Silicone Liner for 5 lb Wood Mold
• 65 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
• 9.3 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 19.3 oz. Distilled Water 10% water discount
• 4 oz. Cactus Flower Fragrance Oil
• Titanium Dioxide
• Bright Blue Jean Colorant
• Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant
• Fizzy Lemonade Colorant
• Green Chrome Oxide
• 2 tsp. Activated Charcoal
• 2 tsp. Poppy Seeds
• 1 M Frosting Tip
• Disposable Frosting Bag
• Powder Duster

Instructions

Make the Embeds

• Chop and melt 7 ounces LCP White Melt and Pour Soap in the microwave using 15-second bursts. Add shavings of the Chrome Green Color Block to achieve a soft green color. Pour the soap into a mold of your choice. The exact shape is not super important because the soap will be chopped into small pieces. We used the 12 Cavity Rectangle Silicone Mold and filled up two cavities. Wait for the bars to cool and harden.
• Once the melt and pour has fully cooled and hardened, remove from the mold. Use a sharp, non-serrated knife to chop the soap into long, rectangle pieces. The exact size of each embed is up to you. Set pieces of soap aside until you're ready to use.

Make the Base

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 4 teaspoons of the colorant into 4 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Then in separate containers, disperse 1/2 teaspoon Fizzy Lemonade Colorant, Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant and Chrome Green Oxide into 1/2 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. The disperse 1 teaspoon Bright Blue Jean Colorant into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to help get rid of any clumps.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 4 ounces of Cactus Flower into a glass, fragrance oil safe container. Set aside.

MOLD & TOOL PREP: Insert the silicone liner into the wood mold.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
• Fully melt the entire bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until completely clear with no cloudiness. Shake the bag to mix up all the oils. Measure 65 oz. into your soaping bowl. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 4 tsp. sodium lactate.
• Once you've reached a thin trace, add all the Cactus Flower Fragrance Oil to the batter. Use your stick blender to stir in the fragrance and then use short bursts to further incorporate.
• Pour 200 mL of soap into two separate containers. To one container, add 1/2 teaspoon dispersed Fizzy Lemonade Colorant. To the other, add 1/2 teaspoon dispersed Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant. Use a whisk or spoon to fully incorporate the colors. Set the soap aside.
• Pour 30 ounces of uncolored soap into a separate container. To this container, add 1 tablespoon of the dispersed Bright Blue Jean Colorant and 1/8 teaspoon dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Use the stick blender to mix in the colorants. If the soap is still at thin trace, stick blend until you reach medium trace.
• Whisk 2 teaspoons of poppy seeds into the blue soap.
• Pour all of the blue soap into the mold. Tap the mold on the counter firmly to release air bubbles. If the soap is thick enough to hold its shape, slide a spoon down the length of the mold several times to create a wavy texture in the soap. NOTE: If the soap is not holding its shape, allow it to thicken in the mold and proceed to step nine. After mixing the white soap, return to this step to create texture and create the mica line.
• Put a few teaspoons of activated charcoal into the powder duster. Lightly dust the charcoal onto the blue soap. Apply only a light layer to the soap, or the layers may separate once cut. Set the mold aside.
• To the remaining soap, add all of the dispersed titanium dioxide. Adding the extra oil will cause the trace to thin. The soap needs to be a thick texture to support the embeds. Use the stick blender to thicken the soap, and then pour it into the mold. Save a small amount of white soap for the next step. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help disperse any bubbles. Use the back of a small spoon to spread the soap evenly into the mold.
• Begin placing the melt and pour embeds into the soap. We placed ours randomly, but you can concentrate the pieces on the side of the soap flowers if you'd like. Continue inserting pieces until the entire soap is filled. Use the small amount of your leftover white soap to cover the green pieces. Use a spoon to smooth the top.
• Transfer the yellow soap into the pink soap, and use a spoon to very gently stir them together. Don't mix the colors together completely.
• Cut off the tip of the disposable frosting bag and insert the frosting tip. Test the consistency of the pink and yellow soap. It should be a thick trace, and able to hold its shape. If it's not thick enough, let the soap sit in the container for 5-10 minutes and check the consistency again. We waited about 15 minutes for the soap to thicken before piping the flowers.
• Once the soap is thick enough to pipe, transfer it into the frosting bag. Pipe little flowers down the length of the mold, concentrating them on one side. If you'd like, you can space them out, placing a flower in the center of each bar. Once you're done piping flowers, pipe the leftover soap onto a silicone mold or onto any nonstick surface.
• Spritz the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Because you don't want the flowers or melt and pour embeds to melt, keep this soap in a cool area. Don't cover and insulate. If you live in a hot climate, you can place the mold into the fridge for about 3-4 hours. Then remove the soap to sit and harden overnight. After about 2-3 days, unmold the soap and cut into bars. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy!

The post Cactus Flower Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

Sometimes the most stunning soap projects come from a simple design idea. This Spiced Copper Cold Process features layers of uncolored soap separated by lines of Copper Sparkle Mica. The top is then covered in the mica, creating a sparkly and slightly rustic look. This soap is scented with Spiced Amber Ale Fragrance Oil, which does not discolor in cold process soap. Read more about discoloration here. Having a non-discoloring fragrance oil is crucial for the mica lines to pop. If you choose a different fragrance oil for this project, keep that in mind!

The technique of creating lines in cold process soap using powder colorants is known as a mica line, or mica vein. The key to this technique is creating thin and even lines of colorant. If the lines are too thick, the layers of soap can separate. A small powder duster really comes in handy. While other colorants like oxides and pigments can be used for this technique, micas work best as they are extremely fine. The fine powdery texture of micas makes it easy to create a thin and even line. If you are thinking about trying this technique, now is a great time!

What You’ll Need:
Tall Narrow Wood Loaf Mold
40 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
5.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
13.2 oz. Distilled Water
Copper Sparkle Mica
2.5 oz. Spiced Amber Ale Fragrance Oil
Optional: Powder Duster

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Soap Crafting. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: Have the Copper Sparkle Mica nearby. There is no need to disperse it with any oil, you will add the colorant to the soap dry. To help evenly sprinkle the mica onto the soap, a powder duster comes in handy!

MOLD & TOOL PREP: Line the Tall Narrow Wood Loaf Mold with freezer paper with the shiny side up. For tips on how to line the mold, click here.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Fully melt the entire bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until there is no cloudiness. Shake to mix and measure out 40 oz. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2.5 sodium lactate.

THREE: Once you have reached a thin trace, add the all of the Spiced Amber Ale Fragrance Oil and use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the fragrance.

FOUR: Portion off the batter into five even containers. 
FIVE: Stick blend one of the containers until you reach a medium to thick trace. This will be the very bottom layer, so having a thick base will help support all the layers on top.

SIX: Pour the thick soap into the mold, and firmly tap the mold onto the counter to help release any bubbles and disperse the soap throughout the mold. Use a spoon to spread the mixture, and create soft waves.

SEVEN: Add a small amount of the Copper Sparkle Mica to the powder duster, and lightly cover the soap with a layer of Copper Sparkle Mica. Close your eyes and blow gently on the color to help disperse it evenly on top of the layer. Watch out, this part can get a bit messy!

EIGHT: Use a spoon to add another container of soap on top of the first layer. If it’s extremely thin, stick blend for several seconds until it reaches a medium trace. Using a spoon helps gently add the soap; if you were to pour, it may break through the mica layer and into the layer below. Once all the soap has been added, use the spoon to gently smooth the soap and create soft texture.

NINE: Add another layer of Copper Sparkle Mica and blow gently. The entire layer of soap should be covered, but be careful not to add too much! Excess mica can cause the soap layers to separate once cut.

TEN: Spoon another container of soap onto the layer below. Use the spoon to spread out the soap, creating an even layer. Use the spoon to create soft waves. 

ELEVEN: Cover this layer of soap with a thin and even layer of Copper Sparkle Mica and blow gently. Tap the mold on the counter to help eliminate air bubbles.

TWELVE: Spoon another container of soap into the mold, on top of the Copper Sparkle Mica layer. Spread out the soap evenly throughout the mold, and create soft texture with the spoon.

THIRTEEN: You guessed it…cover with more Copper Sparkle Mica and blow gently!

FOURTEEN: Add the last of the soap on top of the Copper Sparkle Mica line. Use a spoon to create a textured top. There is no right or wrong way to do this, just have fun with it! Once you’re happy with the top, cover the top with plenty of Copper Sparkle Mica. Then, close your eyes and gently blow off the excess powder.

Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 3-4 days. Remove from the mold, and peel away freezer paper. To cut, lay the soap on its side and cut in the direction of the mica lines. This helps prevent dragging the mica down the bar and into the cream layers. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks, enjoy!

Have you tried the mica line technique before? If you’d like to see it in action, check out the Lemon Poppy Seed Cold Process Soap on Soap Queen TV. 

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Spiced Copper Cold Process Soap Tutorial

This Spiced Copper Cold Process Soap uses mica to create eye-catching layers.

Course Cold process soap

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Servings 3 .5 pounds of soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Tall Narrow Wood Loaf Mold
• 40 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
• 5.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 13.2 oz. Distilled Water
• Copper Sparkle Mica
• 2.5 oz. Spiced Amber Ale Fragrance Oil
• Optional: Powder Duster

Instructions

COLOR PREP: Have the Copper Sparkle Mica nearby. There is no need to disperse it with any oil, you will add the colorant to the soap dry. To help evenly sprinkle the mica onto the soap, a powder duster comes in handy!

MOLD & TOOL PREP: Line the Tall Narrow Wood Loaf Mold with freezer paper with the shiny side up.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
• Fully melt the entire bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until there is no cloudiness. Shake to mix and measure out 40 oz. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2.5 sodium lactate.
• Once you have reached a thin trace, add the all of the Spiced Amber Ale Fragrance Oil and use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the fragrance.
• Portion off the batter into five even containers.
• Stick blend one of he containers until you reach a medium to thick trace. This will be the very bottom layer, so having a thick base will help support all the layers on top.
• Pour the thick soap into the mold, and firmly tap the mold onto the counter to help release any bubbles and disperse the soap throughout the mold. Use a spoon to spread the mixture, and create soft waves.
• Add a small amount of the Copper Sparkle Mica to the powder duster, and lightly cover the soap with a layer of Copper Sparkle Mica. Close your eyes and blow gently on the color to help disperse it evenly on top of the layer. Watch out, this part can get a bit messy!
• Use a spoon to add another container of soap on top of the first layer. Using a spoon helps gently add the soap; if you were to pour, it may break through the mica layer and into the layer below. Once all the soap has been added, use the spoon to gently smooth the soap and create soft texture.
• Add another layer of Copper Sparkle Mica and blow gently. The entire layer of soap should be covered, but be careful not to add too much! Excess mica can cause the soap layers to separate once cut.
• Spoon another container of soap onto the layer below. Use the spoon to spread out the soap, creating an even layer. Use the spoon to create soft waves.
• Cover this layer of soap with a thin and even layer of Copper Sparkle Mica and blow gently. Tap the mold on the counter to help eliminate air bubbles
• Spoon another container of soap into the mold, on top of the Copper Sparkle Mica layer. Spread out the soap evenly throughout the mold, and create soft texture with the spoon.
• You guessed it…cover with more Copper Sparkle Mica and blow gently!
• Add the last of the soap on top of the Copper Sparkle Mica line. Use a spoon to create a textured top. There is no right or wrong way to do this, just have fun with it! Once you’re happy with the top, sprinkle the top with plenty of Copper Sparkle Mica. Then, close your eyes and gently blow off the excess powder.
• Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 3-4 days. Remove from the mold, and peel away freezer paper. To cut, lay the soap on its side and cut in the direction of the mica lines. This helps to avoid dragging the mica down the bar and into the cream layers. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks, enjoy!

The post Spiced Copper Cold Process Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

This Goat Milk and Oatmeal Cold Process soap is made with powdered goat milk, oat extract and colloidal oatmeal for a bar that is gentle on the skin. Colloidal oatmeal is extremely fine ground oatmeal that is fantastic for irritated or sensitive skin. Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil gives this bar a warm and comforting scent. The fragrance also lends its vanilla discoloration to the top layer, which darkens the Brown Oxide used to color it. For more information on fragrance discoloration, click through the Why Did My Soap Turn Brown post.

What You’ll Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
3.5 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
1.7 oz. Castor Oil
10.5 oz. Coconut Oil
10.5 oz. Olive Oil
8.8 oz. Palm Oil
5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
11.5 oz. Distilled Water
2 oz. Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil
1 Tbs. Oat Extract 
Titanium Dioxide
Brown Oxide
Gold Sparkle Mica
Colloidal Oatmeal
Powdered Goat Milk
Oatmeal (for top)
Optional: Crinkle Cutter

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

MILK PREP: Mix 1.5 oz. of goat milk powder into the distilled water. Once the powder is completely mixed into the water and contains no clumps, pour the milk into ice cube trays and place them into the freezer until completely hard (several hours to overnight).

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 1 teaspoons of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Disperse 1 teaspoons of the brown oxide into 1 tablespoon light liquid oil. Then, disperse 1 teaspoon colloidal oatmeal into 1 tablespoon light liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get the clumps of color worked out smoothly.

ONE: Remove the fully frozen milk from the ice cube trays and place into a container that has been placed in an ice bath. Slowly add lye and stir until the lye is fully dissolved and the milk has become liquid. Click here to see this process and more tips on creating a lye and milk mixture. The more slowly you add the lye, the cooler the temperature of this mixture will stay. This process will take at least 10 minutes. Make sure there are no undissolved lye bits. The lack of heat slows the process considerably. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye milk. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2.5 tsp. sodium lactate.

TWO: Melt and combine the coconut oil, olive oil, castor, sweet almond oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below, add the lye milk to the oils and stick blend until medium trace. Because this design is simple, a thicker trace than normal works great.

THREE: Add 1 tablespoon of oat extract, and use a whisk to combine.

FOUR: Split the batch evenly into two containers. Each container will hold about 3 cups. To one container, add all of the colloidal oatmeal and titanium dioxide. Use a whisk to fully blend in.

FIVE: To the other container, add 2 teaspoons dispersed brown oxide and all of the Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil. Use a whisk to fully mix in.

SIX: Pour the white soap into the mold, and firmly tap the mold onto the counter to evenly disperse the soap and get rid of air bubbles.

SEVEN: Use a powder duster to sprinkle on a thin layer of Gold Sparkle Mica. Don’t use too much, or the layers of soap may separate. Once the mica has been sprinkled on, close your eyes and gently blow on the mica to evenly disperse it.

EIGHT: Slowly and carefully, pour the brown soap into the mold. Pour the soap over a spoon or spatula to make sure the soap does not break through to the white layer.

NINE: Gently tap the mold onto the counter to evenly disperse the soap in the mold. This also helps get rid of air bubbles.

TEN: Use a spoon to create peaks and texture into the top of the soap.

ELEVEN: Sprinkle a layer of oatmeal on the top. Once you’re happy with the amount of oatmeal, spray the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Place the soap in the freezer for  5-24 hours to help prevent gel phase. Remove the soap from the freezer and allow to sit in the mold for 4-5 days. Milk soap can be a little softer due to the extra milk fat. Patience is key! Use the crinkle cutter to create a textured bar, or a sharp non-serrated knife for a smooth cut. Make sure there are no pieces of oatmeal directly under the knife, otherwise it may create drag marks. You can also turn the soap on its side to cut it in order to prevent drag marks.

Have you used goat milk in cold process soap before? Be on the lookout for more milk tutorials coming soon!

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Goat Milk & Oatmeal Cold Process Soap Tutorial

This cold process soap is extremely skin loving, with colloidal oatmeal, goat milk and oat extract.

Course Cold process soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 3.5 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
• 1.7 oz. Castor Oil
• 10.5 oz. Coconut Oil
• 10.5 oz. Olive Oil
• 8.8 oz. Palm Oil
• 5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 11.5 oz. Distilled Water
• 2 oz. Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil
• 1 Tbs. Oat Extract
• Titanium Dioxide
• Brown Oxide
• Gold Sparkle Mica
• Colloidal Oatmeal
• Oatmeal for top
• Optional: Crinkle Cutter

Instructions

MILK PREP: Mix 1.5 oz. of goat milk powder into the distilled water. Once the powder is completely mixed into the water and contains no clumps, pour the milk into ice cube trays and place them into the freezer until completely hard (several hours to overnight).

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 1 teaspoons of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Disperse 1 teaspoons of the brown oxide into 1 tablespoon light liquid oil. Then, disperse 1 teaspoon colloidal oatmeal into 1 tablespoon light liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get the clumps of color worked out smoothly.

• Remove the fully frozen milk from the ice cube trays and place into a container that has been placed in an ice bath. Slowly add lye and stir until the lye is fully dissolved and the milk has become liquid. Click here to see this process and more tips on creating a lye and milk mixture. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye milk. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2.5 tsp. sodium lactate.
• Melt and combine the coconut oil, olive oil, castor, sweet almond oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below, add the lye milk to the oils and stick blend until medium trace. Because this design is simple, a thicker trace than normal works great.
• Add 1 tablespoon of oat extract, and use a whisk to combine.
• Split the batch evenly into two containers. Each container will hold about 3 cups. To one container, add all of the colloidal oatmeal and titanium dioxide. Use a whisk to fully blend in.
• To the other container, add 2 teaspoons dispersed brown oxide and all of the Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil. Use a whisk to fully mix in.
• Pour the white soap into the mold, and firmly tap the mold onto the counter to evenly disperse the soap and get rid of air bubbles.
• Use a powder duster to sprinkle on a thin layer of Gold Sparkle Mica. Don’t use too much, or the layers of soap may separate. Once the mica has been sprinkled on, close your eyes and gently blow on the mica to evenly disperse it.
• Slowly and carefully, pour the brown soap into the mold. Pour the soap over a spoon or spatula to make sure the soap does not break through to the white layer.
• Gently tap the mold onto the counter to evenly disperse the soap in the mold. This also helps get rid of air bubbles.
• Use a spoon to create peaks and texture into the top of the soap.
• Sprinkle a layer of oatmeal on the top. Once you’re happy with the amount of oatmeal, spray the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Place the soap in the freezer for 5-24 hours to help prevent gel phase. Remove the soap from the freezer and allow to sit in the mold for 4-5 days. Milk soap can be a little softer due to the extra milk fat. Patience is key! Use the crinkle cutter to create a textured bar, or a sharp non-serrated for a smooth cut.

The post Goat Milk & Oatmeal Cold Process Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

What You’ll Need:
9.9 oz. Coconut Oil
9.9 oz. Olive Oil
9.9 oz. Palm Oil
3.3 oz. Rice Bran Oil
4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide
10.8 oz. distilled water
Titanium Dioxide
Fizzy Lemonade Colorant
Luster Black Mica
1 tbs. Poppy Seeds
.5 oz. Lemon Verbena Yankee Type Fragrance Oil
1 oz. Champagne Fragrance Oil
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
Optional: Sodium Lactate

The post Lemon Poppy Seed Cold Process on Soap Queen TV appeared first on Soap Queen.

When you don’t have time to make cold process soap, hot process soap making is a good next choice. The extra heat speeds up the saponification process, which cuts down on cure time. Hot process soap only requires 1-2 days in the mold, even with palm-free recipes like this one. With St. Patrick’s Day right around the corner, this hot process soap will be ready in time to celebrate the holiday.

This Luck of the Irish Hot Process soap features layers of green ombré. Each layer is defined with a line of Gold Sparkle Mica, which adds plenty of shimmer. Don’t use too much mica – a thick mica vein may cause the layers to separate from each other. When creating this effect it’s important to work fast. Hot process soap has a tendency to thicken quickly, which can make creating even layers tricky.

What You’ll Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
10.2 oz. Coconut Oil
10.2 oz. Olive Oil
8.5 oz. Rice Bran Oil
3.4 oz. Shea Butter
1.7 oz. Avocado Oil
1 oz. Sodium Lactate
4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
11.2 oz. Distilled Water
2.5 oz. Kentish Rain Fragrance Oil
Chrome Green Oxide
Gold Sparkle Mica
Optional: Powder Duster

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

COLOR PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon Chrome Green Oxide in 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Have the Gold Sparkle Mica close by to use in between all the layers.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! Goggles, gloves, and long sleeves are your soap making uniform. Be sure that kids and pets are out of the house or unable to access your soaping space, and always soap in a well-ventilated area. Make sure the soap volume will not fill up more than half of your crock pot. If you have never made cold process soap before, I highly recommend you get a couple of basic recipes under your belt before trying out this tutorial. Check out this (free!) 4-part series on cold process soap making, especially the episode on lye safety.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. Once cooled, add sodium lactate. Sodium lactate is used in hot process at 3% of the oil weight to help produce a smoother bar.

TWO: Melt and combine the coconut oil, shea butter, olive oil, rice bran oil and avocado oil. Pour the oils into your Crock Pot pot. Slowly add the lye water to the oils. Make sure the mixture does not fill up more than half of the crock pot or cooking vessel.

THREE: Mix with a stick blender until a thick trace is achieved.

FOUR: Put the lid on the crock pot and set it to low. After 15 minutes, check the soap to see the progress made. Starting from the outside, the texture and color of the soap will start to change into a glossy, slightly Vaseline-like texture. If the middle does not appear to be changing, stir the batch to ensure even cooking. Don’t be surprised if the soap starts to grow in volume. Do not leave your soap unattended in the first 30 minutes of cook time for this reason. If the soap gets too high in the pot, wearing gloves, take the pot off heat and stir like crazy.

FIVE: The batch will be ready when it’s the texture of glossy, thin mashed potatoes. This may take another 15 minute session or even two or three more stir’n’waits. When you think it’s ready, use a pH strip to test the levels. It should be showing below a 10. Be sure not to overcook the soap; you don’t want too dry a texture for the next steps!

NOTE: The amount of time that the soap takes in the Crock Pot phase can depend on the size and shape of your Crock Pot. The flatter ones meant for roasts may go a bit quicker because the soap will be spread out thinner on the heated surface. Because this is a small batch of soap, you may find it will cook faster than larger batches. For our standard sized Crock Pot, the soap took approximately 30 minutes to cook.

SIX: When the soap is ready, add the Kentish Rain fragrance oil blend and mix well. Turn the crock pot off.

SEVEN: Spoon out about 300 mL of soap into a container, and add 2 tsp. of dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Use a spoon or spatula to mix in the color thoroughly.

EIGHT: Transfer the green soap into the mold, and tap the mold firmly on the counter to evenly distribute. Tap a small amount of Sparkle Gold Mica into the powder duster, and sprinkle the gold mica onto the green soap evenly. Only apply a thing layer; if too much mica is used the layers may separate.

NINE: Scoop out another 300 mL of soap into a separate container and add 1/2 tsp. dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Plop the soap on top of the first layer. Placing the soap into different areas of the mold makes it easier to evenly distribute the soap. Gently use a spoon or spatula to gently spread the soap. You can also use your gloved hands to gently spread the soap, but be careful as it may be hot to the touch. Tap the mold firmly onto the counter to help spread the soap evenly.
TEN: Use the powder duster to create a thin layer of mica on top of the second layer.

ELEVEN: Scoop out approximately 300 mL of soap and add 1/4 tsp. dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Layer the soap into the mold, using the same method as in step nine. Use the powder duster to create a thing layer of mica on top of the third layer.
TWELVE: Scoop out the remaining soap and add 1/8 tsp of dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Layer the soap into the mold, using the same method as in step nine. For this layer, you may find it helpful to gently press the soap with your hands to create a more even top. Tap the mold firmly on the counter, and use the powder duster to top the soap with a thin dusting of gold mica.

THIRTEEN: Allow the soap to harden in the mold for 1-2 days. Unmold and cut. This soap is ready to use right away but will last longer in the shower after a full 4-6 week dry and evaporation time.

Looking for even more St. Patrick’s Day projects? Check out these green tutorials below!

Top left, clockwise: Shamrock Cold Process, Green Machine Melt and Pour, Soapy Plaid, Green Meadow Melt & Pour

Print

Luck of the Irish Hot Proces

Made with layers of green ombre and plenty of gold shimmer, this Luck of the Irish Hot Process is perfect for St. Patrick's Day!

Course Hot Process Soap

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 10.2 oz. Coconut Oil
• 10.2 oz. Olive Oil
• 8.5 oz. Rice Bran Oil
• 3.4 oz. Shea Butter
• 1.7 oz. Avocado Oil
• 1 oz. Sodium Lactate
• 4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 11.2 oz. Distilled Water
• 2.5 oz. Kentish Rain Fragrance Oil
• Chrome Green Oxide
• Gold Sparkle Mica
• Optional: Powder Duster

Instructions

COLOR PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon Chrome Green Oxide in 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Have the Gold Sparkle Mica handy to use in between all the layers.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! Goggles, gloves, and long sleeves are your soap making uniform. Be sure that kids and pets are out of the house or unable to access your soaping space, and always soap in a well-ventilated area. Make sure the soap volume will not fill up more than half of your crock pot. If you have never made cold process soap before, I highly recommend you get a couple of basic recipes under your belt before trying out this tutorial. Check out this (free!) 4-part series on cold process soap making, especially the episode on lye safety.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. Once cooled, add sodium lactate. Sodium lactate is used in hot process at 3% of the oil weight to help produce a smoother bar.
• Melt and combine the coconut oil, shea butter, olive oil, rice bran oil and avocado oil. Pour the oils into your Crock Pot’s pot. Slowly add the lye water to the oils.
• Mix with a stick blender until a thick trace is achieved.
• Put the lid on the Crock Pot and set it to low. After 15 minutes, check the soap to see the progress made. Starting from the outside, the texture and color of the soap will start to change into a glossy, slightly vaseline-like texture. If the middle does not appear to be changing, stir the batch to ensure even cooking. Don’t be surprised if the soap starts to grow in volume. Do not leave your soap unattended in the first 30 minutes of cook time for this reason. If the soap gets too high in the pot, take the pot off heat and stir like crazy.
• The batch will be ready when it’s the texture of glossy mashed potatoes. This may take another 15 minute session or even two or three more stir’n’waits. When you think it’s ready, use a pH strip to test the levels. It should be showing below a 10. Be sure not to overcook the soap; you don’t want too dry a texture for the next steps!
• The amount of time that the soap takes in the Crock Pot phase can depend on the size and shape of your Crock Pot. The flatter ones meant for roasts may go a bit quicker because the soap will be spread out thinner on the heated surface. Because this is a small batch of soap, you may find it will cook faster than larger batches. For our standard sized Crock Pot, the soap took approximately 30 minutes to cook.
• When the soap is ready, add the Kentish Rain fragrance oil blend and mix well. Turn the crock pot off.
• Spoon out about 300 mL of soap into a container, and add 2 tsp. of dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Use a spoon or spatula to mix in the color thoroughly.
• Transfer the green soap into the mold, and tap the mold firmly on the counter to evenly distribute. Tap a small amount of Sparkle Gold Mica into the powder duster, and sprinkle the gold mica onto the green soap evenly. Only apply a thing layer; if too much mica is used the layers may separate.
• Scoop out another 300 mL of soap into a separate container and add 1/2 tsp. dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Plop the soap on top of the first layer. Placing the soap into different areas of the mold makes it easier to evenly distribute the soap. Gently use a spoon or spatula to gently spread the soap. You can also use your gloved hands to gently spread the soap, but be careful as it may be hot to the touch. Tap the mold firmly onto the counter to help spread the soap evenly.
• Use the powder duster to create a thin layer of mica on top of the second layer.
• Scoop out approximately 300 mL of soap and add 1/4 tsp. dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Layer the soap into the mold, using the same method as in step nine. Use the powder duster to create a thing layer of mica on top of the third layer.
• Scoop out the remaining soap and add 1/8 tsp of dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Layer the soap into the mold, using the same method as in step nine. For this layer, you may find it helpful to gently press the soap with your hands to create a more even top. Tap the mold firmly on the counter, and use the powder duster to top the soap with a thin dusting of gold mica.
• Allow the soap to harden in the mold for 1-2 days. Unmold and cut. This soap is ready to use right away but will last longer in the shower after a full 4-6 week drying time.

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