Leave your skin feeling smooth with this Charcoal and Clay Face Scrub. Made with a liquid soap base, it has a gentle lather. Additional tamanu oil and hazelnut oil are added because of their amazing skin benefits. In particular, they are great for oily skin types. If you prefer different oil for your skin, feel free to swap them out. Just keep in mind it may change the consistency a bit!

The Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base is made exclusively from olive oil, resulting in a very mild soap. It has a light lather and gentle cleansing properties so it’s suitable for delicate facial skin. If you have extremely dry skin, this recipe may not be the best as it contains kaolin clay and charcoal, which may be drying. Decreasing the amount of kaolin clay and charcoal may help make it suitable for dry skin types; a small test batch may help you find the right ratio for you.

Medium sized jojoba beads give this scrub a gentle amount of exfoliation. Jojoba beads are great for the face because they are round and won’t scratch delicate face skin. The amount of scrub in this recipe is light; if you prefer more exfoliation feel free to add more jojoba beads. Don’t get jojoba beads confused with micro-beads – they are quite different! Learn about the difference here.

What You’ll Need:
Six 4 oz. Jars
10 oz. Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base
6 oz. Hazelnut Oil
0.5 oz. Tamanu Oil
11 oz. Kaolin Clay
4 oz. White Jojoba Beads – Medium
0.3 oz. Activated Charcoal
3 mL Tea Tree Essential Oil
0.1 oz. Optiphen
Dropper
Optional: Charcoal Soap & Scrub Label Template -Free PDF

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: In a large mixing bowl, add the Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base, hazelnut and tamanu oil. Stir until completely combined. The mixture will take on a milky appearance.

TWO: Add the tea tree essential oil and Optiphen. Stir in completely.
NOTE ABOUT PRESERVATIVES: Although this scrub doesn’t contain water, it will likely get water splashed in it during use. The extra water may cause bacteria and mold to grow. We added a preservative to be extra careful, but it is optional. You can read more in the Talk It Out Tuesday: Preservatives post.

THREE: In a separate container, whisk together the kaolin clay, activated charcoal and jojoba beads until completely combined.

FOUR: Add the clay mixture into the liquid mixture in about 3-4 batches. Use a whisk to completely mix in. Adding the dry ingredients in batches helps prevent the dry ingredients from “poofing” up. Continue mixing until completely combined with no clumps. Pour the scrub into jars and seal with the lid.

When you’re ready to use, apply a small amount of the scrub to wet skin. Use gentle circular motions to scrub and wash the face. Avoid the immediate eye area. Rinse off. Follow with moisturizer or other skin care. Enjoy!

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Cleansing Charcoal Facial Scrub DIY

This face scrub is cleansing and great for oil skin.

Course Face Scrub

Cook Time 20 minutes minutes

Total Time 20 minutes minutes

Servings 6 jars

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Six 4 oz. Jars
• 10 oz. Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base
• 6 oz. Hazelnut Oil
• 0.5 oz. Tamanu Oil
• 11 oz. Kaolin Clay
• 4 oz. White Jojoba Beads – Medium
• 0.3 oz. Activated Charcoal
• 3 mL Tea Tree Essential Oil
• 0.1 oz. Optiphen
• Dropper

Instructions

• In a large mixing bowl, add the Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base, hazelnut and tamanu oil. Stir until completely combined. The mixture will take on a milky appearance.
• Add the tea tree essential oil and Optiphen. Stir in completely.
• In a separate container, whisk together the kaolin clay, activated charcoal and jojoba beads until completely combined.
• Add the clay mixture into the liquid mixture in about 3-4 batches. Use a whisk to completely mix in. Adding the dry ingredients in batches helps prevent the dry ingredients from "poofing" up. Continue mixing until completely combined with no clumps. Pour the scrub into jars and seal with the lid.
• When you’re ready to use, apply a small amount of the scrub to wet skin. Use gentle circular motions to scrub and wash the face. Avoid the immediate eye area. Rinse off. Follow with moisturizer, or other skin care. Enjoy!

The post Cleansing Charcoal Facial Scrub DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

Looking for soap that’s going to spruce up your product line, or maybe get customers talking? Say hello to the new Green Salsa Fragrance Oil. It’s a unique scent that smells like jalapeño peppers with a touch of bergamot and ginger. It’s zesty, spicy and completely unique. I will admit, it may not be everybody’s favorite (our office is divided), but those who love it seriously love it. It’s really bold and adventurous!

For this project, I blended Green Salsa Fragrance Oil with Ginger Lime Fragrance Oil for more citrus notes. It reminds me a bit of a jalapeño margarita! It’s intriguing, and I can’t stop smelling it. Green Chrome Oxide Pigment and Green Forest Jojoba Beads match the green scent, and the jojoba beads give the bar a bit of scrub. Learn more about jojoba beads here.

The Multi-Pour Tool for 10″ Silicone Loaf helps create the checkered pattern in these bars. This soap requires layers, so a good understanding of trace is helpful for this project. The Green Salsa Fragrance Oil accelerates the soap slightly, so be prepared for that. The Swirl Quick Mix makes sure you have plenty of time to work. But, be careful to not over stick blend! My layers didn’t come out completely perfect (I used a little too much on the bottom) but I still think it looks pretty cute. =)

What You’ll Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
Multi-Pour Tool for 10″ Silicone Loaf
33 oz. Swirl Quick Mix
4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
10.9 oz. Distilled Water
1 oz. Ginger Lime Fragrance Oil
1 oz. Green Salsa Fragrance Oil
Green Chrome Oxide Pigment
Titanium Dioxide
1 Tbs. Green Forest Jojoba Beads

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made cold process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Disperse 2 teaspoons of the colorant into 2 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Then, disperse 1 teaspoon Green Chrome Oxide Pigment into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to help get rid of any clumps. Have the jojoba beads nearby and ready.

FRAGRANCE OIL PREP: In a glass, fragrance oil safe container, measure 1 ounce Green Salsa Fragrance Oil and 1 ounce Ginger Lime Fragrance Oil. Set aside.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Fully melt the Swirl Quick Mix until completely clear. Give the bag a good shake to fully mix the oils together. Pour 33 ounces of the mix into your soaping bowl. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.

TWO: Once you’ve reached a thin trace, split the containers into two separate containers. To one container add all the dispersed titanium dioxide, and add all the dispersed Green Chrome Green into the other container. Whisk in the colorants to fully combine. To the white soap, add 1 tablespoon of the Forest Green Jojoba Beads, and whisk to combine.

THREE: Add the fragrance blend evenly into both containers and whisk to fully mix in.

FOUR: Pour half of the white soap into one half of the mold, and half of the green soap into the other side. Gently tap the mold on the counter to help level the soap and get rid of bubbles.

FIVE: Now, wait a couple minutes for the soap in the mold to harden and become more firm. This helps it support the second layer. While you’re waiting, slowly whisk the soap in the containers to keep it fluid.

SIX: After a few minutes, give the mold a little shake. If the soap in the mold seems sturdy enough to support the layer on top, carefully pour the green soap onto the white, and the white soap onto the green. For this step, it can be helpful to carefully place the soap on top with a spoon until covered, then gently pour the remaining soap over. Or, pour over a small spatula or back of the spoon to flood the soap and help it pour more gently and evenly. This will help prevent the top layer from breaking through, and keeps the layers separate and straight.

SEVEN: Once all the soap is in the mold, slowly and carefully remove the center divider by pulling up and out. Then, remove each of the divider pieces at the end up and out. Tap the mold on the counter to help settle the soap and get rid of any bubbles. Use a chopstick or dowel to insert into the very, very top of the soap and lightly swirl down the center.

EIGHT: Spray the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. Leave uncovered at room temperature so the soap doesn’t get too hot and melt the jojoba beads. You can also place the soap in the fridge for 5-24 hours to keep it cool.

NINE: Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 2-3 days. Remove from the mold, and cut into bars. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy!

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Zesty Green Cold Process Soap Tutorial

This Zesty Green Soap is made with Fresh Salsa Fragrance Oil, which is wonderfully spicy!

Course Cold process soap

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• Multi-Pour Tool for 10″ Silicone Loaf
• 33 oz. Swirl Quick Mix
• 4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 10.9 oz. Distilled Water
• 1 oz. Ginger Lime Fragrance Oil
• 1 oz. Green Salsa Fragrance Oil
• Green Chrome Oxide Pigment
• Titanium Dioxide
• 1 Tbs. Green Forest Jojoba Beads

Instructions

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Disperse 2 teaspoons of the colorant into 2 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Then, disperse 1 teaspoon Green Chrome Oxide Pigment into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to help get rid of any clumps. Have the jojoba beads nearby and ready.

FRAGRANCE OIL PREP: In a glass, fragrance oil safe container, measure 1 ounce Green Salsa Fragrance Oil and 1 ounce Ginger Lime Fragrance Oil. Set aside.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
• Fully melt the Swirl Quick Mix until completely clear. Give the bag a good shake to fully mix the oils together. Pour 33 ounces of the mix into your soaping bowl. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
• Once you’ve reached a thin trace, split the containers into two separate containers. To one container add all the dispersed titanium dioxide, and add all the dispersed Green Chrome Green into the other container. Whisk in the colorants to fully combine. To the white soap, add 1 tablespoon of the Forest Green Jojoba Beads, and whisk to combine.
• Add the fragrance blend evenly into both containers and whisk to fully mix in.
• Pour half of the white soap into one half of the mold, and half of the green soap into the other side. Gently tap the mold on the counter to help level the soap and get rid of bubbles.
• After a few minutes, give the mold a little shake. If the soap in the mold seems sturdy enough to support the layer on top, carefully pour the green soap onto the white, and the white soap onto the green. For this step, it can be helpful to carefully place the soap on top with a spoon until covered, then gently pour the remaining soap over. Or, pour over a small spatula or back of the spoon to flood the soap and help it pour more gently and evenly. This will help prevent the top layer from breaking through, and keeps the layers separate and straight.
• Once all the soap is in the mold, slowly and carefully remove the center divider by pulling up and out. Then, remove each of the divider pieces at the end up and out. Tap the mold on the counter to help settle the soap and get rid of any bubbles. Use a chopstick or dowel to insert into the very, very top of the soap and lightly swirl down the center.
• Spray the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. Leave uncovered at room temperature so the soap doesn't get too hot and melt the jojoba beads. You can also place the soap in the fridge for 5-24 hours to keep it cool.
• Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 2-3 days. Remove from the mold, and cut into bars. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy!

The post Zesty Green Cold Process Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

Cucumber is such a soothing and refreshing fragrance. It’s the perfect scent to relax and rejuvenate. Earlier this week, I mixed it with lavender to create Cucumber & Lavender Bath Bombs. Now that our skin has been treated to a hot bath, the next step in the home spa experience is to scrub away dead skin. This Cucumber Sea Salt Scrub does the trick.

The base of this scrub is Foaming Bath Butter. It’s a premade base that when whipped with a hand or stand mixer, transforms into a light and fluffy consistency. It is made of gentle surfactants that mildly cleanse the skin. To the base, a combination of Fine Grained Dead Sea Salt and Forest Green Jojoba Beads are added. The jojoba beads add a light green color and gentle exfoliation. Learn more about jojoba beads here, and how they differ from microbeads.

Fine grained Dead Sea salt is great for the body, but can be a little scratchy on gentle facial skin. The amount of salt in this recipe provides gentle exfoliation. If you prefer something “scrubbier,” feel free to add more salt to suit your preference. We also created free printable labels for this scrub! Simply add download the label and print the labels on waterproof label paper.

What You’ll Need:
5 Tall 8 oz. Bail Jars
20 oz. Foaming Bath Butter
0.3 oz. Cucumber Extract
30 oz. Fine Grained Dead Sea Salt
1 oz. Forest Green Jojoba Beads
0.2 oz. Cucumber Melon Fragrance Oil
Optional: Salt Scrub Label

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: In a large bowl, use a hand mixer (or a stand mixer) to break up the Foaming Bath Butter and whip it into a smooth, light and fluffy texture.

TWO: Add the cucumber extract, and Cucumber Melon Fragrance Oil. Use the mixer to fully incorporate the ingredients.
A note about preservatives: Because the Foaming Bath Butter already contains a preservative, an additional preservative was not used in this recipe. If you would like to add a preservative, a .5% usage rate is recommended so as to not over preserve the product. Read more in the Talk It Out Tuesday: Preservatives post.

THREE: Add the fine grained Dead Sea salt and jojoba beads. Use the mixer to fully blend the ingredients together. Use a spatula to scrape the sides of the bowl as necessary to make sure everything is combined.

FOUR: Scoop the scrub into jars. Enjoy! To use, apply to damp skin and gently scrub the product. This scrub is suited for the legs and body, but may be a little harsh for gentle facial skin.

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Cucumber Sea Salt Scrub DIY

This salt scrub gives the body gentle exfoliation, and also cleanses the skin.

Course Scrub

Cook Time 20 minutes minutes

Total Time 20 minutes minutes

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 5 Tall 8 oz. Bail Jars
• 20 oz. Foaming Bath Butter
• 0.3 oz. Cucumber Extract
• 30 oz. Fine Grained Dead Sea Salt
• 1 oz. Forest Green Jojoba Beads
• 0.2 oz. Cucumber Melon Fragrance Oil

Instructions

• In a large bowl, use a hand mixer (or a stand mixer) to break up the Foaming Bath Butter and whip it into a smooth, light and fluffy texture.
• Add the cucumber extract, and Cucumber Melon Fragrance Oil. Use the mixer to fully incorporate the ingredients. A note about preservatives: because the Foaming Bath Butter already contains a preservative, an additional preservative was not used in this recipe. If you would like to add a preservative, a .5% usage rate is recommended so as to not over preserve the product. Read more in the Talk It Out Tuesday: Preservatives post.
• Add the fine grained Dead Sea salt and jojoba beads. Use the mixer to fully blend the ingredients together. Use a spatula to scrape the sides of the bowl as necessary to make sure everything is combined.
• Scoop the scrub into jars. Enjoy! To use, apply to damp skin and gently scrub the product. This scrub is suited for the legs and body, but may be a little harsh for gentle facial skin.

The post Cucumber Melon Sea Salt Scrub DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

Exfoliation removes dead skin, brightens up skin and helps moisturizer absorb better. These melt and pour soaps contain an exfoliating trio of pumice, poppy seeds and Lagoon Green Jojoba Beads. Jojoba beads are smooth and round, and feel gentle on the skin. They are great for delicate facial skin. Poppy seeds are a little larger and rougher, making them more suitable for the body.

This project is suitable for beginners, but does take a little knowledge regarding layering melt and pour soap. The key to layering melt and pour is temperature and patience. Click here to read my top five tips on creating layered melt and pour designs. I scented these bars with the masculine Bramble Berry’s Made to Measure Type Fragrance Oil, but any fragrance oil could be used for these scrubby soaps.

What You’ll Need:
Round Cupcake Silicone Mold
14 oz. Shaving Melt and Pour Base
10 oz. White Melt and Pour Base
8 mL Bramble Berry’s Made to Measure Type Fragrance Oil 
1 Tbs. Lagoon Green Jojoba Beads 
1 Tbs. Poppy Seeds
1 Tbs. Pumice
99% Isopropyl Alcohol
Dropper
Optional: 8 oz. Bottle (Spray Top)

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: Chop and melt 14 ounces of the Shaving Melt and Pour Base in the microwave using 20 second bursts. Once melted, add 4 mL of the Bramble Berry’s Made to Measure Type Fragrance Oil and mix in thoroughly.

TWO: Once the melted soap is below 125° F, add the Lagoon Green Jojoba beads and stir. Waiting until the soap has cooled helps prevent the jojoba beads from melting in the base and helps them suspend evenly throughout the mixture. Mix in thoroughly.

THREE: Pour the soap into each cavity evenly. After each pour, spritz the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to get rid of air bubbles. Set aside and allow the soap to cool and harden.

FOUR: While the soap hardens, mix 1 tablespoon of pumice into 1 tablespoon of rubbing alcohol. Doing so helps prevent clumps. Set aside.

FIVE: Chop and melt 10 ounces of White Melt and Pour Base in the microwave using 15-20 second bursts. Add one tablespoon of poppy seeds and all of the pumice mixture. Stir in thoroughly. Add 4 mL of the Bramble Berry’s Made to Measure Type Fragrance Oil to the melted soap and stir to thoroughly mix in.

SIX: Test the bottom layer. It should be firm enough to support a layer of soap on top. If not, allow it to cool and harden longer. If it is firm enough and the melted soap is 125° F or below, spritz the bottom layer with rubbing alcohol and pour the white soap into each cavity. Spritz the top with rubbing alcohol to get rid of any bubbles. Allow to fully cool and harden. Remove from the mold, and wrap in plastic wrap to help prevent glycerin dew. Learn more about storing handmade products here.

I love the look of poppy seeds in melt and pour! What is your favorite exfoliant for soap?

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Pumice & Poppy Seed Melt and Pour Tutorial

These bars are made with pumice, poppy seeds and jojoba beads to create an extra exfoliating soap!

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Round Cupcake Silicone Mold
• 14 oz. Shaving Melt and Pour Base
• 10 oz. White Melt and Pour Base
• 8 mL Bramble Berry’s Made to Measure Type Fragrance Oil
• 1 Tbs. Lagoon Green Jojoba Beads
• 1 Tbs. Poppy Seeds
• 1 Tbs. Pumice
• 99 % Isopropyl Alcohol
• Dropper
• Optional: 8 oz. Bottle Spray Top

Instructions

• Chop and melt 14 ounces of the Shaving Melt and Pour Base in the microwave using 20 second bursts. Once melted, add 4 mL of the Bramble Berry’s Made to Measure Type Fragrance Oil and mix in thoroughly.
• Once the melted soap is below 125° F, add the Lagoon Green Jojoba beads and stir. Waiting until the soap has cooled helps prevent the jojoba beads from melting in the base and helps them suspend evenly throughout the mixture. Mix in thoroughly.
• Pour the soap into each cavity evenly. After each pour, spritz the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to get rid of air bubbles. Set aside and allow the soap to cool and harden.
• While the soap hardens, mix 1 tablespoon of pumice into 1 tablespoon of rubbing alcohol. Doing so helps prevent clumps. Set aside.
• Chop and melt 10 ounces of White Melt and Pour Base in the microwave using 15-20 second bursts. Add one tablespoon of poppy seeds and all of the pumice mixture. Stir in thoroughly. Add 4 mL of the Bramble Berry’s Made to Measure Type Fragrance Oil to the melted soap and stir to thoroughly mix in.
• Test the bottom layer. It should be firm enough to support a layer of soap on top. If not, allow it to cool and harden longer. If it is firm enough and the melted soap is 125° F or below, spritz the bottom layer with rubbing alcohol and pour the white soap into each cavity. Spritz the top with rubbing alcohol to get rid of any bubbles. Allow to fully cool and harden. Remove from the mold, and wrap in plastic wrap to help prevent glycerin dew. Learn more about storing handmade products here.

The post Pumice & Poppy Seed Melt and Pour Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

Jojoba beads are one of my favorite exfoliants. They are round and smooth, making them gentle on the skin. The biodegradable beads (sometimes called jojoba esters) are derived from the wax of the jojoba shrub. Jojoba beads are not to be confused with microbeads, which are made from plastic. Click here to learn more about jojoba beads vs. microbeads. For this Scrubby Body Wash, I used Sierra Sky Jojoba Beads to give gentle exfoliation and a gorgeous blue hue.

Jojoba beads suspend wonderfully in the thick texture of the Stephenson Suspending Body Wash. The amount of jojoba beads used in this recipe give a very gentle exfoliation. Feel free to use more if you prefer an extra scrubby wash. I used the Bramble Berry’s Fierce Type Fragrance Oil to give this wash a masculine scent.

What You’ll Need:
Two 8 oz. Bottles with Pump Top
16 oz. Stephenson Suspending Body Wash
2 Tbs. Sierra Sky Jojoba Beads
0.2 oz. Bramble Berry’s Fierce Type Fragrance Oil
Dropper

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

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ONE: Pour the Stephenson Suspending Body Wash into a large mixing bowl.

TWO: Add Bramble Berry’s Fierce Type Fragrance Oil into the base and thoroughly mix in. You will notice the base will become slightly cloudy, this is normal.

THREE: Add the jojoba beads and thoroughly stir to mix in. Feel free to add more jojoba beads if you want an extra scrubby wash.

FOUR: Carefully pour the mixture into bottles. I like to use a funnel for this step to help avoid spills. Place the cap on the bottle and enjoy!

What’s your favorite scrubby additive? 

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Scrubby Body Wash DIY

This body wash contains jojoba beads for light exfoliation.

Cook Time 15 minutes minutes

Total Time 15 minutes minutes

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Two 8 oz. Bottles with Pump Top
• 16 oz. Stephenson Suspending Body Wash
• 2 Tbs. Sierra Sky Jojoba Beads
• 0.2 oz. Bramble Berry’s Fierce Type Fragrance Oil

Instructions

• Pour the Stephenson Suspending Body Wash into a large mixing bowl.
• Add Bramble Berry’s Fierce Type Fragrance Oil into the base and thoroughly mix in. You will notice the base will become slightly cloudy, this is normal.
• Add the jojoba beads and thoroughly stir to mix in.
• Carefully pour the mixture into bottles. I like to use a funnel for this step to help avoid spills. Place the cap on the bottle and enjoy!

The post Easy Scrubby Body Wash DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

This Blueberry Jam Sugar Scrub will get your skin exfoliated and ready for shorts and tank tops. Sugar, Jasmine Jojoba Beads and Sierra Sky Jojoba Beads exfoliate and leave the skin feeling fresh. The jojoba beads also add a lovely blueberry color to the scrub. To lightly cleanse the skin, it contains potassium cocoate. Fractionated coconut oil adds some moisture to the recipe.

What You’ll Need:
Four 8 oz. Tall Plastic Bail Jars
20 oz. Granulated Sugar
1.8 oz. Jasmine Jojoba Beads
1.8 oz. Sierra Sky Jojoba Beads
1 oz. Potassium Cocoate
1 oz. Fractionated Coconut Oil 
9 mL Blueberry Jam Fragrance Oil
9 mL Optiphen
Droppers

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!
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ONE: In a large container, add 1.8 oz. of Jasmine Jojoba Beads, 1.8 oz. of Sierra Sky Jojoba Beads and 20 oz. of sugar.

TWO: Thoroughly mix the jojoba beads and sugar together.

THREE: Add 1 oz. of potassium cocoate and 1 oz. of fractionated coconut oil into the mixture. Use a spoon to fully incorporate the liquid.

FOUR: Add 9 mL of Blueberry Jam Fragrance Oil and 9 mL of Optiphen and stir until fully incorporated.
Note: Although this scrub doesn’t contain water, it will likely get water splashed in it during use. The extra water may cause bacteria and mold to grow. We added a preservative to be extra careful but the preservative is optional. You can read more in the Talk It Out Tuesday: Preservatives post.

FIVE: Using a spoon, scoop the scrub evenly into jars. Enjoy!

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Blueberry Jam Sugar Scrub DIY

This scrub smells like fresh blueberry jam and feels great on the skin!

Course Scrub

Cook Time 20 minutes minutes

Total Time 20 minutes minutes

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Four 8 oz. Tall Plastic Bail Jars
• 20 oz. Granulated Sugar
• 1.8 oz. Jasmine Jojoba Beads
• 1.8 oz. Sierra Sky Jojoba Beads
• 1 oz. Potassium Cocoate
• 1 oz. Fractionated Coconut Oil
• 9 mL Blueberry Jam Fragrance Oil
• 9 mL Optiphen
• Droppers

Instructions

• In a large container, add 1.8 oz. of Jasmine Jojoba Beads, 1.8 oz. of Sierra Sky Jojoba Beads and 20 oz. of sugar.
• Thoroughly mix the jojoba beads and sugar together.
• Add 1 oz. of potassium cocoate and 1 oz. of fractionated coconut oil into the mixture. Use a spoon to fully incorporate the liquid.
• Add 9 mL of Blueberry Jam Fragrance Oil and 9 mL of Optiphen and stir until fully incorporated. Note: Although this scrub doesn’t contain water, it will likely get water splashed in it during use. The extra water may cause bacteria and mold to grow. We added a preservative to be extra careful but the preservative is optional. You can read more in the Talk It Out Tuesday: Preservatives post.
• Using a spoon, scoop the scrub evenly into jars. Enjoy!

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The post Blueberry Jam Sugar Scrub Easy DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

Jojoba oil is a liquid wax derived from the jojoba shrub. The wax is processed to a solid wax, which is referred to as a jojoba ester. These jojoba esters are jojoba beads! Spherical in shape, jojoba beads/esters are biodegradable and come in a wide variety of colors and shapes. Jojoba beads make a great choice for a wide variety of bath and beauty products because the edges of the bead are smooth. This smooth shape avoids microscopic tears on the skins surface. The combination of gentle exfoliation and fun colors make them a great choice for scrubs, soaps and other products. Read more about jojoba beads and how to use them in this Sunday Night Spotlight: Jojoba Beads post.

Jojoba beads come in a wide variety of sizes and colors.

Microbeads are also used in a wide variety of bath and beauty products. Micorbeads can commonly be found in soap, toothpaste and scrubs. They come in different shapes and colors, and also offer exfoliation. The difference is that microbeads are not made from jojoba oil like jojoba beads. Instead, microbeads are plastic (commonly made of polyethylene).

After the microbeads are used in beauty products, they are usually washed down the drain. The microbeads then flow through the sewer system and wastewater treatment plants, which are not able to filter the beads due to their small size. This causes plastic particle water pollution. In April 2015, samples taken from six New York wastewater plants found that nearly three quarters of the treated water contained microbeads. Click here to read more about the study.

Unlike natural jojoba beads, microbeads are not biodegradable. Eventually, microbeads find their way into streams, rivers and the ocean. Animals in these waters are unable to digest the microbeads. Studies have shown that marine life such as mussels and tiny crustaceans ingest the microbeads which remain in their digestive track or migrate to other body tissue. Likewise, humans who eat the seafood are unable to digest microbeads.

People are becoming more aware of the effects of microbeads on the environment. According to Beat the Microbead, Johnson & Johnson, Procter & Gamble and The Body Shop stopped including microbeads in their products in 2013. More recently, the Canadian government announced developing regulations to add microbeads to the list of toxic substances under the Canadian Environmental Protection Act. In the US, states have begun to ban microbeads. Illinois and New Jersey have banned the beads, while states such as Colorado have begun drafting legislation.

Bramble Berry does not sell plastic microbeads, but does sells natural, biodegradable jojoba beads, as shown above. 

What can you do to help? Read the ingredients of your beauty products to make sure they do not contain polyethylene or polypropylene, the two most common microbead plastics. Download the Beat the Microbead App to check if products at the store and in your home contain microbeads. When making your own beauty products, use natural exfoliants such as jojoba beads (click here to see more exfoliant options). With so many wonderful natural exfoliant options, there is no need to use plastic microbeads.

The post Jojoba Beads vs Microbeads, What’s the Difference? appeared first on Soap Queen.

Delicious and full of health benefits, green tea is one of the most consumed beverages in the world. Green tea is comprised of leaves of the camellia sinensis plant. Green tea is known for its natural catechin content, with antioxidants that fight cell damage when ingested. Studies also suggest that green tea may lower cholesterol and prevent various forms of cancer. Because of its possible health benefits, green tea has become a popular ingredient for bath and beauty products.

These Exfoliating Green Tea Cold Process Bars are made with green tea rather than water. In addition, green tea extract is also added to harness its skin-loving properties. Scented with Green Tea Fragrance Oil, this soap smells fresh, clean and perfect for both men and women. Half of these bars include jojoba beads, which offer gentle exfoliation.

Most cold process recipes on Soap Queen are formulated at 5% superfat. Superfat refers to the percentage of oil that is not turned into soap by the lye. Click here to see a visual representation of the saponification process, along with the concept of superfat. In my experience, I find that a 5% superfat is extremely skin-loving, while still firm and easy to unmold. Because of the extra oil in the green tea extract and colorants, I decreased the superfat to 3% in this recipe to aid in unmolding. Keep in mind that a 0% superfat is a perfectly balanced bar of soap! Less than 5% superfat is not a dangerous or bad thing. =)

What You’ll Need:
12 Bar Round Silicone Mold
1.8 oz. Avocado Butter
2.5 oz. Canola Oil
1 oz. Castor Oil
8.8 oz. Coconut Oil
5.3 oz. Green Tea Seed Oil
7 oz. Olive Oil
8.8 oz. Palm Oil
5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
11.6 oz. Distilled Water
Hydrated Chrome Green Oxide
Titanium Dioxide
Forest Green Jojoba Beads
2.5 oz. Green Tea Fragrance Oil
1 Tbs. Green Tea Extract
Optional: Green tea for the lye water

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Soap Crafting. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 1 teaspoon of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Disperse 1 teaspoon Hydrated Chrome Green Oxide into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to work out any clumps.

GREEN TEA PREP: When adding lye to an alternative liquid such as green tea, the natural sugars in the liquid will burn, causing the liquid to become a dark color. To help keep temperatures down, it’s best to chill the tea before adding the lye. First, boil distilled water to prepare the tea. Measure 11.6 of the hot water into a heat safe container, and add your green tea. Any band of green tea is fine, just make sure there are no added sugars. Allow the tea to steep and cool for about 1 hour. Remove the tea bags and place in the freezer until the liquid reaches about 40 ° F. The cooler the mixture, the lighter the color of the lye mixture will be. If you’d like, you can also freeze the green tea and add the lye to the frozen tea, similar to adding lye to milk, as shown here.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the green tea water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved. The mixture will be a brown color. (Do not panic. It does harden up way lighter and that’s what the titanium dioxide is for.) Set aside to cool.

TWO: Fully melt the coconut, olive, avocado butter, canola, castor, green tea seed and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2 tsp. sodium lactate.

THREE: Once the batter has reached a light trace, add 1 tablespoon Green Tea Extract and stick blend to fully incorporate.


FOUR: Add 1 tablespoon dispersed Titanium Dioxide to the entire mixture. Use the stick blender to mix in the colorant, alternating between pulsing and stirring with the blender. As you stick blend, the color will become lighter but will still be a tan color. Don’t worry! The color will continue to lighten as it hardens in the mold.


FIVE: Split the batch in half. It’s okay to eyeball it. Each container will hold about 3 cups of soap.

SIX: To one container, add 1 tablespoon dispersed Hydrated Chrome Green Oxide. Use a whisk to fully mix in the colorant.


SEVEN: Add half of the Green Tea Fragrance Oil into the green soap mixture, and use the stick blender to fully incorporate the fragrance oil. Continue to stick blend until the soap batter reaches a medium trace. It should be the texture of thick cake batter. 


EIGHT: Place the mold onto a large cutting board to help transfer it later. Pour the green soap into the cavities, filling each about halfway. Use the cutting board to tamp the mold onto the counter to help release any air bubbles. 


NINE: To the remaining soap, add 1 tablespoon Forest Green Jojoba Beads. Use a whisk to fully mix in the beads.

TEN: Mix in the remaining Green Tea Fragrance Oil and use a whisk to fully incorporate the fragrance.


ELEVEN: Slowly and carefully, pour the soap into each cavity, on top of the green layer. Pour gently so you do not break through the green layer below.


TWELVE: Allow the soap to sit in the mold for several minutes. Once the top layer has thickened, use a spoon to create a gentle swirl. Be careful to not push too far into the soap and disturb the green layer below. Once you’re happy with the swirl, spray the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Continue to spray the soap every 15-20 minutes for the first hour. Allow to sit in the mold for 3-4 days and watch the soap lighten up (a lot!). Gently remove the soap and allow to cure for 4-6 weeks.

Do you have a favorite alternative liquid that you use in cold process soap?

Print

Exfoliating Green Tea Cold Process Bars

This Exfoliating Green Tea Bars are made with real green tea and green tea extract.

Course Cold process soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 12 Bar Round Silicone Mold
• 1.8 oz. Avocado Butter
• 2.5 oz. Canola Oil
• 1 oz. Castor Oil
• 8.8 oz. Coconut Oil
• 5.3 oz. Green Tea Seed Oil
• 7 oz. Olive Oil
• 8.8 oz. Palm Oil
• 5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 11.6 oz. Distilled Water
• Hydrated Chrome Green Oxide
• Titanium Dioxide
• Forest Green Jojoba Beads
• 2.5 oz. Green Tea Fragrance Oil
• 1 Tbs. Green Tea Extract
• Optional: Green tea for the lye water

Instructions

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 1 teaspoon of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Disperse 1 teaspoon Hydrated Chrome Green Oxide into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to work out any clumps.

GREEN TEA PREP: When adding lye to an alternative liquid such as green tea, the natural sugars in the liquid will burn causing the liquid to become a dark color. To help keep temperatures down, it’s best to chill the tea before adding the lye. First, boil distilled water to prepare the tea. Measure 11.6 of the hot water into a heat safe container, and add your green tea. Any band of green tea is fine, just make sure there are no added sugars. Allow the tea to steep and cool for about 1 hour. Remove the tea bags and place in the freezer until the liquid reaches about 40 ° F. The cooler the mixture, the lighter the color of the lye mixture will be. If you’d like, you can also freeze the green tea and add the lye to the frozen tea, similar to adding lye to milk, as shown here.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the green tea water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved. The mixture will be a brown color. Set aside to cool.
• Fully melt the coconut, olive, avocado butter, canola, castor, green tea seed and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2 tsp. sodium lactate.
• Once the batter has reached a light trace, add 1 tablespoon Green Tea Extract and stick blend to fully incorporate.
• Add 1 tablespoon dispersed Titanium Dioxide to the entire mixture. Use the stick blender to mix in the colorant, alternating between pulsing and stirring with the blender. As you stick blend, the color will become lighter but will still be a tan color. Don’t worry! The color will continue to lighten as it hardens in the mold.
• Split the batch in half. It’s okay to eyeball it. Each container will hold about 3 cups of soap.
• To one container, add 1 tablespoon dispersed Hydrated Chrome Green Oxide. Use a whisk to fully mix in the colorant.
• Add half of the Green Tea Fragrance Oil into the green soap mixture, and use the stick blender to fully incorporate the fragrance oil. Continue to stick blend until the soap batter reaches a medium trace. It should be the texture of thick cake batter.
• Place the mold onto a large cutting board to help transfer the mold later. Pour the green soap into the cavities, filling each about halfway. Use the cutting board to tamp the mold onto the counter to help release any air bubbles.
• To the remaining soap, add 1 tablespoon Forest Green Jojoba Beads. Use a whisk to fully mix in the beads.
• Mix in the remaining Green Tea Fragrance Oil and use a whisk to fully incorporate the fragrance.
• Slowly and carefully, pour the soap into each cavity, on top of the green layer. Pour gently so you do not break through the green layer below.
• Allow the soap to sit in the mold for several minutes. Once the top layer has thickened, use a spoon to create a gentle swirl. Be careful to not push too far into the soap and disturb the green layer below. Once you’re happy with the swirl, spray the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Continue to spray the soap every 15-20 minutes for the first hour. Allow to sit in the mold for 3-4 days. Gently remove the soap and allow to cure for 4-6 weeks.

The post Exfoliating Green Tea Cold Process Bars appeared first on Soap Queen.

Jojoba beads are perfect for scrubs. Along with adding gentle exfoliation to your recipe, they also add a gorgeous color. The Fresh Rain Sugar Scrub gets its blue hue from Ocean Blue Jojoba Beads. Using different colors and layering them creates a fun rainbow effect in this Rainbow Jojoba Bead Sugar Scrub.

The Rainbow Jojoba Bead Scrub uses five different colors of jojoba beads. Sugar adds more scrubbiness to the recipe, which gets rid of dead skin and helps your moisturizer absorb. Spring Meadow Fragrance Oil adds a scent that is reminiscent of a bouquet of fresh flowers. Potassium cocoate gives the scrub lather and leaves your skin feeling non-greasy. Potassium cocoate is the potassium salt of coconut fatty acid. It’s an all natural liquid surfactant made from 100% whole coconut oil and potassium hydroxide. It works great in scrubs, shampoos and liquid soaps.

This scrub works great for your body. It is also gentle enough to use on your face. The scrub is strongly scented, so you may want to use less fragrance if you use this scrub for your face.

What You’ll Need:
12 oz. sugar
2 oz. Mango Butter
3 oz. Potassium Cocoate
1 Tbsp. Forest Green Jojoba Beads
1 Tbsp. Jasmine Jojoba Beads
1 Tbsp. Ocean Blue Jojoba Beads
1 Tbsp. Red Jojoba Beads
1 Tbsp. Sanora Sand Jojoba Beads
8 mL Carrot Extract
8 mL Spring Meadow Fragrance Oil
8 mL Optiphen
Two Tall 8 oz. Plastic Bail Jars
Optional: Droppers

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: Measure out 1 Tbsp. of each jojoba bead into five separate containers.

TWO: Melt 2 oz. of mango butter in a heat safe container on 30 second bursts. Microwaving on short bursts prevents the mango butter from getting too hot, which can cause graininess. If there are several chunks of mango butter in the mixture, stir until they melt.

THREE: Add 3 oz. of potassium cocoate and stir until the mixture thickens. Add 8 mL of the carrot extract and 8 mL of Spring Meadow Fragrance Oil and stir well.

FOUR: Check the temperature of the mixture. If it is cooler than 176 F, add 8 mL of the Optiphen. If your scrub is warmer than 176 F, the preservative may not be effective.
Note: Although this scrub doesn’t contain water, it will likely get water splashed in it during use. The extra water may cause bacteria and mold to grow. We added a preservative to be extra careful. You can read more in the Talk It Out Tuesday: Preservatives post.
FIVE: In a separate container large enough to hold the entire mixture, measure out 12 oz. of sugar. Add the mango butter and potassium cocoate mixture and stir well.

SIX: Spoon the mixture evenly into each jojoba bead container. There should be about 3.5 oz. in each container. You can use a scale to measure it out or just eyeball it.

SEVEN: Stir each color well and spoon into the bail jars. We layered green, purple, blue, red and orange, but you can choose any color order you like! Let the mixture cool completely and it’s ready to use.
Note: Spoon the mixture around the sides of the container rather than right in the middle. That will help prevent the scrub from sinking in the middle and will give you more even lines.

What color combination is your favorite? Rainbow will always be a favorite of mine…I can’t get enough!

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Rainbow Jojoba Bead Scrub

This colorful Rainbow Jojoba Bead Scrub gently exfoliates and nourishes your skin.

Course Scrub

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 12 oz. sugar
• 2 oz. Mango Butter
• 3 oz. Potassium Cocoate
• 1 Tbsp. Forest Green Jojoba Beads
• 1 Tbsp. Jasmine Jojoba Beads
• 1 Tbsp. Ocean Blue Jojoba Beads
• 1 Tbsp. Red Jojoba Beads
• 1 Tbsp. Sanora Sand Jojoba Beads
• 8 mL Carrot Extract
• 8 mL Spring Meadow Fragrance Oil
• 8 mL Optiphen
• Two Tall 8 oz. Plastic Bail Jars
• Optional: Droppers

Instructions

• Measure out 1 Tbsp. of each jojoba bead into five separate containers.
• Melt 2 oz. of mango butter in a heat safe container on 30 second bursts. Microwaving on short bursts prevents the mango butter from getting too hot, which can cause graininess. If there are several chunks of mango butter in the mixture, stir until they melt.
• Add 3 oz. of potassium cocoate and stir until the mixture thickens. Add 8 mL of the carrot extract and 8 mL of Spring Meadow Fragrance Oil and stir well.
• Check the temperature of the mixture. If it is cooler than 176 F, add 8 mL of the Optiphen. If your scrub is warmer than 176 F, the preservative may not be effective. Note: Although this scrub doesn’t contain water, it will likely get water splashed in it during use. The extra water may cause bacteria and mold to grow. We added a preservative to be extra careful.
• In a separate container large enough to hold the entire mixture, measure out 12 oz. of sugar. Add the mango butter and potassium cocoate mixture and stir well.
• Spoon the mixture evenly into each jojoba bead container. There should be about 3.5 oz. in each container. You can use a scale to measure it out or just eyeball it.
• Stir each color well and spoon into the bail jars. We layered green, purple, blue, red and orange, but you can choose any color order you like! Once the mixture is fully cooled, it's ready to use! Note: Spoon the mixture around the sides of the container rather than right in the middle. That will help prevent the scrub from sinking in the middle and will give you more even lines.

The post Rainbow Jojoba Bead Sugar Scrub appeared first on Soap Queen.

Starting tomorrow, keep your eyes on the blog for a full week of rainbow inspired projects! Each day will highlight one color of the rainbow, starting with red and ending with purple. Each project will also include one colorant and fragrance on sale for that day. Pictured below are all six projects…be on the lookout for the final project featuring a complete rainbow color palette.

If the gloomy winter weather has you feeling blue, these rainbow inspired projects will surely bring some much needed cheer. One of my all time favorite projects, the Rainbow Squirty Swirl Cold Process uses squeeze bottles to create a unique and colorful effect. Each squeeze bottle is filled with a different rainbow hue and squirted into the mold one color at a time. The addition of white soap gives the layers contrast. If you’d like to see this technique in action, the Cotton Candy Cold Process tutorial on Soap Queen TV shows you how.

Above: Rainbow Squirty Swirls

When making rainbow hued projects, the addition of white or black helps the colors pop. In the Over the Rainbow Cold Process tutorial, the negative embed technique is used to create circular shapes within a white base. The negative embed technique involves creating empty space within the soap and filling the holes with fresh soap. If you like the look of this technique, check out the Misty Maritime Moon Cold Process tutorial.

Above: Over the Rainbow Cold Process

If you’re looking for rainbow melt and pour inspiration, the Rainbow Hearts Melt and Pour is full of colorful hearts. The Mini Heart Silicone Column Mold creates heart embeds within the soap that are exposed when cut. If you love the look of this project, keep your eyes on the blog! This project was recently made into a Soap Queen TV video, which will be on the blog soon.

Above: Rainbow Hearts Melt and Pour

Melt and pour soap is great for creating clean, crisp layers of color. In the Rainbow Spheres and Rainbow Mold and Island Style Tutorial, vibrant layers of color create eye-catching results. In the Color Block Rainbow Soap Tutorial, pieces of melt and pour colored with non-bleeding color blocks produce a stained-glass effect. If you’d like more information on how to use color blocks in melt and pour, check out this Soap Queen TV video.

Top left, clockwise: Rainbow Mold and Island Style Tutorial, Rainbow Spheres, Color Block Rainbow Soap Tutorial

Looking for a little rainbow magic? The Rainbow Unicorn Melt and Project is full of shimmer and rainbow inspiration. A great project for advanced melt and pour soapers, each section of the unicorn’s mane is filled with various rainbow hues. With a gold horn and a fruity blend of Rise and Shine and Hello Sweet Thang Fragrance Oils, this project is total crowd-pleaser.

Above: Rainbow Unicorn Melt and Pour

Jojoba beads are a fantastic way to add color to a wide variety of projects. Made from the liquid wax, jojoba oil, jojoba beads add gentle exfoliation. Jojoba beads come in a wide variety of colors; click here to see them all. Add jojoba beads to melt and pour, scrubs or cold process for a pop of color. To learn more about jojoba beads and how to use them, check out the Sunday Night Spotlight: Jojoba Beads blog post.

With spring right around the corner, have you started introducing more color into your projects? If you get photos, I’d love to see them on the Facebook page or on Instagram. Hashtag your soap with #soapshare for a chance to win a Soap Crafting book!

The post Rainbow Project Roundup appeared first on Soap Queen.