Vibrantly-colored leaves are one of my favorite aspects of autumn. These Vermont Maple Melt & Pour Soaps celebrate the changing foliage with plenty of color. Yellow, orange and red soap is layered into each cavity. Then, the soaps are dusted with mica to really help them pop. The mica will wash off after the first use, but as you continue to wash the layers of colors are revealed.

They are scented with Vermont Maple Fragrance Oil. It features notes of maple, wood, vanilla and coffee for a complex and comforting scent. It does discolor slightly, so don’t forget the Vanilla Color Stabilizer! The Vermont Maple Fragrance Oil is part of the limited edition Autumn Frost Fragrance Collection. It features four new fall and winter fragrance oils, and is only available until September 30th. Don’t wait – you save $10 when buying the kit rather than buying the fragrance oils separately. See the kit here.

What You’ll Need:
Guest Leaves Mold
10 oz. Clear Melt and Pour Soap Base
0.2 oz. Vermont Maple Fragrance Oil
0.2 oz. Vanilla Color Stabilizer
Shimmer Sparkle Gold Color Block
Perfect Red Color Block
Perfect Orange Color Block
Yellow Oxide Color Block
99% Isopropyl Alcohol in Spray Bottle
Evergreen Mica
Merlot Sparkle Mica

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: Chop and melt 10 ounces of Clear Melt and Pour Soap base in the microwave using 15-20 second bursts. Once completely melted, add shavings of the Shimmer Sparkle Gold Color Block. This gives the soap just a bit of extra shimmer. Mix in the Vermont Maple Fragrance Oil and Vanilla Color Stabilizer.

TWO: Split the soap evenly between three small containers.

THREE: Add shavings of the Perfect Red Color Block, Perfect Orange Color Block and Yellow Oxide Color Block to the separate containers. Continue adding shavings until you’re happy with the shades. If need be, reheat the soap in the microwave using 5 second bursts to help the color blocks melt. Be careful to not overheat and burn the soap; patience is key. =)

FOUR: Pour a small amount of the red soap into each cavity, and move the mold around to disperse the red soap in the corners and side of the mold. Continue moving the mold and soap until it cools and hardens. Then, pour a little more red soap into each cavity, concentrating the color on the outside edges. Spritz with alcohol to disperse any bubbles, and allow to cool and harden.

FIVE: Reheat the yellow and orange soap if necessary using 3-5 second bursts. Because you’re heating such a small amount of soap it’s easy to burn, so short bursts are key. Wait until the soap has reached 125-130 ° F. Then, spritz with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help the layers adhere and begin pouring the yellow and orange soap into the molds, layering and swirling the colors. Spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles, and allow the soap to fully cool and harden. If you have some soap leftover, reheat and pour into an extra mold.

SIX: Remove from the molds by pressing the back of the soap firmly with your palm. If it’s having trouble releasing, place the mold in the freezer for about 5-10 minutes and try again. Don’t leave the soap in the freezer too long, or it can cause glycerin dew. Once removed, dust the soap with Evergreen Mica and Merlot Sparkle Mica to give the soaps extra dimension and sparkle. This step is optional, but it really makes the bars pop! The sparkle will wash off after one use.

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Vermont Maple Melt & Pour Soap DIY

These Maple Leaves Soaps celebrate the change of seasons with plenty of fall colors.

Course Melt and Pour Soap

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour

Servings 5 soaps

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Guest Leaves Mold
• 10 oz. Clear Melt and Pour Soap Base
• 0.2 oz. Vermont Maple Fragrance Oil
• 0.2 oz. Vanilla Color Stabilizer
• Shimmer Sparkle Gold Color Block
• Perfect Red Color Block
• Perfect Orange Color Block
• Yellow Oxide Color Block
• 99 % Isopropyl Alcohol in Spray Bottle
• Evergeen Mica
• Merlot Sparkle Mica

Instructions

• Chop and melt 10 ounces of Clear Melt and Pour Soap base in the microwave using 15-20 second bursts. Once completely melted, add shavings of the Shimmer Sparkle Gold Color Block. This gives the soap just a bit of extra shimmer. Mix in the Vermont Maple Fragrance Oil, and Vanilla Color Stabilizer.
• Split the soap evenly between three small containers.
• Add shavings of the Perfect Red Color Block, Perfect Orange Color Block and Yellow Oxide Color Block to the separate containers. Continue adding shavings until you're happy with the shades. If need be, reheat the soap in the microwave using 5 second bursts to help the color blocks melt. Be careful to not overheat and burn the soap; patience is key. =)
• Pour a small amount of the red soap into each cavity, and move the mold around to disperse the red soap in the corners and side of the mold. Continue moving the mold and soap until it cools and hardens. Then, pour a little more red soap into each cavity, concentrating the color on the outside edges. Spritz with alcohol to disperse any bubbles, and allow to cool and harden.
• Reheat the yellow and orange soap if necessary using 3-5 second bursts. Because you're heating such a small amount of soap it's easy to burn, so short bursts are key. Wait until the soap has reached 125-130 ° F. Then, spritz with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help the layers adhere and begin pouring the yellow and orange soap into the molds, layering and swirling the colors. Spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles, and allow the soap to fully cool and harden. If you have some soap leftover, reheat and pour into an extra mold.
• Remove the soap from the molds by pressing the back of the soap firmly with your palm. If it’s having trouble releasing, place the mold in the freezer for about 5-10 minutes and try again. Don’t leave the soap in the freezer too long, or it can cause glycerin dew. Once removed, dust the soap with Evergreen Mica and Merlot Sparkle Mica to give the soaps extra dimension and sparkle. This step is optional, but it really makes the bars pop! The sparkle will wash off after one use.

The post Vermont Maple Melt & Pour Soap DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

Washington state is known as “The Evergreen State” for the abundance of trees in the area. They have a fresh scent and vivid green color throughout the year. These Cedar & Amber Cold Process Soaps were inspired by the evergreen scenery of the Pacific Northwest. Classic fall colors are layered upon each other using the “spoon-plop” technique. The spoon plop technique is perfect for beginners. All you have to do is spoon in random colors of soap. It creates a unique look in every bar.

The new Cedar and Amber Fragrance Oil gives these bars an earthy, rustic scent. It’s a great unisex fragrance oil with notes of pine, cedar, clove and amber. It’s the perfect complement to the earthy colors in this bar. The soap feels great as well, thanks to moisturizing oils like meadowfoam, olive and sweet almond.

What You’ll Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
8.8 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)
8.8 oz. Palm Oil (25%)
8.8 oz. Olive Oil (25%)
3.5 oz. Meadowfoam Oil (10%)
3.5 oz. Sweet Almond Oil (10%)
1.8 oz. Castor Oil (5%)
11.5 oz. Distilled Water
4.8 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
2 oz. Cedar and Amber Fragrance Oil
Yellow Oxide
Evergreen Mica
Burgundy Pigment
Titanium Dioxide

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made cold process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Disperse 1 teaspoon of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Then in a separate containers, disperse 1/2 teaspoon Yellow Oxide and Burgundy Pigment into 1/2 tablespoon of oil. Disperse 1 teaspoon of Evergreen Mica into 1 tablespoon of oil. Use a mini mixer to help get rid of any clumps.

FRAGRANCE OIL PREP: In a glass, fragrance oil safe container, measure 2 ounces of Cedar & Amber Fragrance Oil. Set aside.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Fully melt and combine the coconut oil, olive oil, palm oil, castor oil, sweet almond oil and meadowfoam oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.

THREE: Once you’ve reached thin trace, split the soap into four even containers. Add the following amounts of dispersed colorants into each container. Use a whisk to fully mix in the colorants.

• Container A (white): 2 teaspoons dispersed titanium dioxide
• Container B (yellow): 1/4 teaspoon dispersed Yellow Oxide
• Container C (green): All dispersed Evergreen Mica
• Container D (red): 1/4 teaspoon dispersed Burgundy Pigment

FOUR: Add the measured Cedar & Amber Fragrance Oil evenly into each container. It’s okay to eyeball it! Use a whisk to fully mix in the fragrance oil.

FIVE: If the soap is still a thin trace, use the stick blender and pulse each container to thicken slightly. The spoon-plop technique works best with medium trace soap.

SIX: Grab a large spoon for each color.  Spoon the soap into the mold, one color at a time, layering them in three different spots. Don’t worry about being too precise with your “plops.”

SEVEN: Continue plopping each color into the mold in various areas. You can keep a consistent color pattern or shake it up! For this project, I didn’t keep a consistent pattern. Instead I placed various colors in the mold, being careful to not layer the same color twice. Every now and then, tap the mold firmly on the counter to help level the soap and get rid of bubbles.

EIGHT: Once all the soap is in the mold, insert a chopstick or dowel into the very top of the soap and create “S” shaped curves down the length of the mold. Then, insert the dowel or chopstick into the very top of the soap again, and create large “S” shaped curves in the opposite direction down the length of the mold.

NINE: Spritz the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol, and cover to insulate for 24 hours. Allow to stay in the mold for 2-3 days. Remove from the mold and cut into bars. Allow the soap to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy!

Even with insulating and spritzing with alcohol, we got some soda ash on this soap. It’s starting to get colder here in Bellingham, so this is something we deal with every year. Learn more about soda ash and how to handle it here.

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Cedar & Amber Cold Process Soap

This project uses classic fall colors along with Cedar and Amber Fragrance Oil to create a great soap for both men and women.

Course Cold process soap

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 8.8 oz. Coconut Oil 25%
• 8.8 oz. Palm Oil 25%
• 8.8 oz. Olive Oil 25%
• 3.5 oz. Meadowfoam Oil 10%
• 3.5 oz. Sweet Almond Oil 10%
• 1.8 oz. Castor Oil 5%
• 11.5 oz. Distilled Water
• 4.8 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 2 oz. Cedar and Amber Fragrance Oil
• Yellow Oxide
• Evergreen Mica
• Burgundy Pigment
• Titanium Dioxide

Instructions

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 1 teaspoon of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Then in a separate containers, disperse 1/2 teaspoon Yellow Oxide and Burgundy Pigment into 1/2 tablespoon of oil. Disperse 1 teaspoon of Evergreen Mica into 1 tablespoon of oil. Use a mini mixer to help get rid of any clumps.

FRAGRANCE OIL PREP: In a glass, fragrance oil safe container, measure 2 ounces of Cedar & Amber Fragrance Oil. Set aside.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
• Fully melt and combine the coconut oil, olive oil, palm oil, castor oil, sweet almond oil and meadowfoam oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
• Once you’ve reached thin trace, split the soap into four even containers. Add the following amounts of dispersed colorants into each container. Use a whisk to fully mix in the colorants.<br>Container A (white): 2 teaspoons dispersed titanium dioxide<br>Container B (yellow): 1/4 teaspoon dispersed Yellow Oxide<br>Container C (green): All dispersed Evergreen Mica<br>Container D (red): 1/4 teaspoon dispersed Burgundy Pigment
• Add the measured Cedar & Amber Fragrance Oil evenly into each container. It’s okay to eyeball it! Use a whisk to fully mix in the fragrance oil.
• If the soap is still a thin trace, use the stick blender and pulse each container to thicken slightly. The spoon-plop technique works best with medium trace soap.
• Grab a large spoon for each color. Spoon the soap into the mold, one color at a time, layering them in three different spots. Don’t worry about being too precise with your “plops.”
• Continue plopping each color into the mold in various areas. You can keep a consistent color pattern or shake it up! For this project, I didn’t keep a consistent pattern and instead just placed various colors in the mold, being careful to not layer the same color twice. Every now and then, tap the mold firmly on the counter to help level the soap and get rid of bubbles.
• Once all the soap is in the mold, insert a chopstick or dowel into the very top of the soap, and create “S” shaped curves down the length of the mold. Then, insert the dowel or chopstick into the very top of the soap again, and create large “S” shaped curves in the opposite direction down the length of the mold.
• Spritz the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol, and cover to insulate for 24 hours. Allow to stay in the mold for 2-3 days. Remove from the mold and cut into bars. Allow the soap to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy!

The post Cedar & Amber Cold Process Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

Last year, I tried making an impression patterned soap for the first time. You can find that tutorial here. I was inspired by Auntie Clara’s gorgeous lace patterned soap. To achieve the pattern, first you need to create a silicone texture mat. Auntie Clara has a wonderful tutorial and plenty of tips on creating your own patterned mat here. Creating your own textured mat allows you to customize the look, but it is a tricky process. These new impression mats are ready to be placed in the bottom of your mold. Simply cut them down to size to fit your mold and pour your soap on top. Then, unmold and peel away the mat to reveal the pattern!

For this project, I used the Flowers and Spirals Impression Mat. This particular mat has a raised pattern, which leaves a stamp-like effect on the soap. To help the pattern pop, I filled the indented part of the mat with white soap and scraped it away from the flower and vine pattern. The Scraper/Cutter Tool worked great for this step. Then, I poured dark green soap on top. This way, the green soap touched the raised pattern of the mat, which resulted in a pronounced pattern.

The process shown in this tutorial an advanced technique. To simplify it, you can skip the multiple layers and colors. Simply pouring one color of soap onto the impression mat will still result in a beautiful soap! I have also found the impression mats that have a recessed pattern (such as the Cupcake Mat or the Butterflies and Feathers Mat) are a little bit easier to use. It’s easier to fill in a recessed pattern rather than a recessed negative space because the pattern is smaller.

What You’ll Need:
18 Bar Birchwood Mold
Silicone Liner for 18 Bar Mold
Flowers and Spirals Impression Mat
14 oz. Avocado Oil (20%)
3.5 oz. Castor Oil (5%)
7 oz. Cocoa Butter (10%)
17.5 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)
7 oz. Mango Butter (10%)
21 oz. Olive Oil (30%)
23 oz. Distilled Water
9.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
Titanium Dioxide
Green Chrome Oxide Pigment
Evergreen Mica
3.5 oz. Bamboo Mint Fragrance Oil

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

[sq_products]

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also check out the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

IMPRESSION MAT PREP: The first step is cutting the Flowers and Spirals Impression Mat to fit into the inside of your mold. If you use the silicone liner inside the mold, it needs to be cut to fit inside the silicone mold, rather than inside the 18 Bar Birchwood Mold. My mat measured roughly 12.5 x 9.25 inches. If you’re using the silicone liner, once you cut the mat to size, I would recommend placing the mat inside the silicone the mold along with the impression mat. When the silicone liner is placed into the mold, the sides are pushed up and in which may cause the impression mat to fit slightly different inside the liner. You may find the impression mat needs additional trimming.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 1 teaspoon of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Then in separate containers, disperse 2 teaspoons of the Evergreen Mica into 2 tablespoons of oil and 1 teaspoon of the Chrome Green Oxide Pigment into a 1 tablespoon of oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps.

FRAGRANCE OIL PREP: Measure 3.5 ounces of Bamboo Mint Fragrance Oil into a glass, fragrance oil safe container.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Melt and combine the avocado oil, castor oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, mango butter and olive oil. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 110-120F degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 5.5 teaspoons sodium lactate. Because this recipe contains a large amount of olive oil, you may find it takes a little bit longer to trace.

THREE: Once the soap has reached a thin trace, split off about 200 mL of soap. Add 1.5 teaspoons of dispersed titanium dioxide. Use a whisk to mix in.

FOUR: Pour enough white soap into the mold to just cover the bottom.

FIVE: Use a Scraper tool to spread the soap throughout the mold. You want the white soap to fill the indents of the design, while the raised pattern should be wiped clean of white soap as much as possible. Place any leftover white soap back into the small container.

SIX: From the main batch of soap, split off about 500 mL of soap into a separate container. Add 1 teaspoon of dispersed Chrome Green Oxide and use a whisk to mix in.

SEVEN: Carefully pour the green soap into the mold. Try to avoid breaking the white layer as much as possible; the idea is to let the dark green soap show on only the raised design as much as possible. I found using a spoon to carefully cover the pattern worked best. Continue until all the green soap is used up.

EIGHT: Add the Bamboo Mint Fragrance Oil to the main batch.

NINE: Pour off about 900 mL of soap into a separate container, and add 2 tablespoons dispersed Evergreen Mica and use a whisk to mix in.

TEN: To the uncolored soap, add 1 tablespoon of dispersed titanium dioxide. I also added the leftover white soap used to fill in the impression mat back into this container of white soap. Now it’s time for an in-the-pot swirl! Pour the green soap into the white soap, pouring from about 6-8 inches above. Pouring from above allows the green soap to break through to the bottom of the container. Continue to pour the soap into various areas of the white soap container. Use a dowel or chopstick to swirl the soap once or twice.

ELEVEN: Spoon the swirled soap on top of the dark green. Once you have covered the green layer, continue to pour the white and green soap into the mold until completely full.

TWELVE: Spread the back of the soap with a spoon or spatula to smooth. Spritz with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash, then cover and insulate for 24 hours. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 3-4 days. Remove from the mold and remove the impression mat. Cut into bars. Allow the bars to cure for 4-6 weeks to allow them to fully cure. Enjoy!

Have you tried soaping with an impression mat yet? It’s so fun! Peeling away the mat to reveal the pattern on your soap is so satisfying. =)

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Bamboo Mint Cold Process Soap Tutorial

This project uses an impression mat to create a beautiful pattern on the top of your bars.

Course Cold process soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 18 Bar Birchwood Mold
• Silicone Liner for 18 Bar Mold
• Flowers and Spirals Impression Mat
• 14 oz. Avocado Oil 20%
• 3.5 oz. Castor Oil 5%
• 7 oz. Cocoa Butter 10%
• 17.5 oz. Coconut Oil 25%
• 7 oz. Mango Butter 10%
• 21 oz. Olive Oil 30%
• 23 oz. Distilled Water
• 9.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• Titanium Dioxide
• Green Chrome Oxide Pigment
• Evergreen Mica
• 3.5 oz. Bamboo Mint Fragrance Oil

Instructions

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

IMPRESSION MAT PREP: The first step is cutting the Flowers and Spirals Impression Mat to fit into the inside of your mold. If you use the silicone liner inside the mold, it needs to be cut to fit inside the silicone mold, rather than inside the 18 Bar Birchwood Mold. My mat measured roughly 12.5 x 9.25 inches. If you’re using the silicone liner, once you cut the mat to size, I would recommend placing the mat inside the silicone the mold along with the impression mat. When the silicone liner is placed into the mold, the sides are pushed up and in which may cause the impression mat to fit slightly different inside the liner. You may find the impression mat needs additional trimming.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 1 teaspoon of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Then in separate containers, disperse 2 teaspoons of the Evergreen Mica into 2 tablespoons of oil and 1 teaspoon of the Chrome Green Oxide Pigment into a 1 tablespoon of oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps.

FRAGRANCE OIL PREP: Measure 3.5 ounces of Bamboo Mint Fragrance Oil into a glass, fragrance oil safe container.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
• Melt and combine the avocado oil, castor oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, mango butter and olive oil. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 110-120 F degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 5.5 teaspoons sodium lactate. Because this recipe contains a large amount of olive oil, you may find it takes a little bit longer to trace.
• Once the soap has reached a thin trace, split off about 200 mL of soap. Add 1.5 teaspoons of dispersed titanium dioxide. Use a whisk to mix in.
• Pour enough white soap into the mold to just cover the bottom.
• Use a Scraper tool to spread the soap throughout the mold. You want the white soap to fill the indents of the design, while the raised pattern should be wiped clean of white soap as much as possible. Place any leftover white soap back into the small container.
• From the main batch of soap, split off about 500 mL of soap into a separate container. Add 1 teaspoon of dispersed Chrome Green Oxide and use a whisk to mix in.
• Carefully pour the green soap into the mold. Try to avoid breaking the white layer as much as possible; the idea is to let the dark green soap show on only the raised design as much as possible. I found using a spoon to carefully cover the pattern worked best. Continue until all the green soap is used up.
• Add the Bamboo Mint Fragrance Oil to the main batch. Use a whisk to mix in thoroughly.
• Pour off about 900 mL of soap into a separate container, and add 2 tablespoons dispersed Evergreen Mica and use a whisk to mix in.
• To the uncolored soap, add 1 tablespoon of dispersed titanium dioxide. I also added the leftover white soap used to fill in the impression mat back into this container of white soap. Now it’s time for an in-the-pot swirl! Pour the green soap into the white soap, pouring from about 6-8 inches above. Pouring from above allows the green soap to break through to the bottom of the container. Continue to pour the soap into various areas of the white soap container. Use a dowel or chopstick to swirl the soap once or twice.
• Spoon the swirled soap on top of the dark green. Once you have covered the green layer, continue to pour the white and green soap into the mold until completely full.
• Spread the back of the soap with a spoon or spatula to smooth. Spritz with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash, then cover and insulate for 24 hours. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 3-4 days. Remove from the mold and remove the impression mat. Cut into bars. Allow the bars to cure for 4-6 weeks to allow them to fully cure. Enjoy!

The post Bamboo Mint Impression Cold Process Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

The spin swirl technique refers to pouring layers of soap into the mold, then spinning the soap to create a unique design. The key to the spin swirl is a slow-moving recipe and fragrance oil that does not accelerate trace. This Clover and Aloe Spin Swirl Soap is made with the new Clover and Aloe Fragrance Oil, which behaves wonderfully in cold process. I also like to use a lazy Susan for this project – it really helps with spinning motion!

If you’re a beginner soaper, I would recommend getting a few recipes under your belt before attempting this project. The soap batter must stay fluid for a long period of time, so a good understanding of trace is essential. If you’re looking for more spin swirl tutorials, check out the Psychedelic Spin Swirl Cold Process Soap and the Pantone Spin Swirl Cold Process Soap for more inspiration.

What You Need: 
9 Bar Birchwood Mold + Dividers
Silicone Liner for 9 Bar Mold
16 oz. Canola Oil (40%)
0.8 oz. Castor Oil (2%)
8 oz. Coconut Oil (20%)
8 oz. Palm Oil (20%)
4 oz. Rice Bran Oil (10%)
3.2 oz. Sweet Almond Oil (8%)
5.5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
13.2 oz. Distilled Water
2.5 oz. Clover and Aloe Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide
Kermit Green Mica
Evergreen Mica
Black Oxide
Optional: Sodium Lactate

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!
[sq_products]

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Clover & Aloe Spin Swirl Cold Process on Soap Queen TV

This Clover & Aloe Spin Swirl Soap features lots of layers and a fresh scent.

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 9 Bar Birchwood Mold + Dividers
• Silicone Liner for 9 Bar Mold
• 16 oz. Canola Oil 40%
• 0.8 oz. Castor Oil 2%
• 8 oz. Coconut Oil 20%
• 8 oz. Palm Oil 20%
• 4 oz. Rice Bran Oil 10%
• 3.2 oz. Sweet Almond Oil 8%
• 5.5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 13.2 oz. Distilled Water
• 2.5 oz. Clover and Aloe Fragrance Oil
• Titanium Dioxide
• Kermit Green Mica
• Evergreen Mica
• Black Oxide
• Optional: Sodium Lactate

Instructions

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap.To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Disperse 2 teaspoon of the colorant into 2 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Then in separate containers, disperse 1 teaspoon of the Black Oxide and 1 teaspoon of Evergreen Mica into 1 tablespoon of lightweight liquid oil. Finally, disperse 2 teaspoons of Kermit Green Mica into 2 tablespoons oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2.5 ounces of Clover and Aloe Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

• Slowly and carefully add the 5.5 ounces of lye to 13.2 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2.5 teaspoons.
• Melt and combine the 16 ounces of canola oil, 0.8 ounces of castor oil, 8 ounces of coconut oil, 8 ounces palm oil, 4 ounces of rice bran oil, 3.2 ounces of sweet almond oil and 8 ounces of palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until a very thin trace.
• Be careful to not over emulsify the batter. The soap batter should be very thin. You can always stick blend more later. Split the batch into four containers. Each container will hold about 400 mL.
• To one container, add 1 tablespoon dispersed titanium dioxide. To another add 2 tablespoons of dispersed Kermit Green Mica and 1/2 teaspoon titanium dioxide. To the third container, add 2 teaspoons of Evergreen Mica. To the final container, add 1 teaspoon of dispersed black oxide. Use a whisk to mix in the colorants.
• Add the Clover and Aloe Fragrance Oil to each container evenly - it's okay to eyeball it.
• Now it’s time to pour. We like to place the mold on a Lazy Susan to help spin the soap. The order in which you pour the colors into the mold is up to you. We like to pour two contrasting colors into opposite corners of the mold at the same time. Continue to pour varying colors into the corners of the mold.
• Count to three during each pour to help pour an even amount. Pour color in the opposite corner of the mold, counting to three to help pour evenly. Start pouring various colors into both corners of the mold. As you layer the colors, the soap is pushed toward the center of the mold. Work as quickly as possible during this process, as the soap will continue to thicken up with time. Every now and then, give the colors a whisk to help keep them fluid. Jiggle the mold to loosen up the soap if it begins to mound up.
• Once all the colors have been poured into the mold spin the Lazy Susan, stopping it quickly to help give the soap movement. You want the centrifugal force created by the spin and stop movement to move the soap in various directions within the mold. Be careful not to spin too hard, or the soap may spill out of the mold.
• Continue swirling until you’re happy with the pattern. Be careful to not over-swirl the soap, or the colors will muddle together.
• Once you’re happy with the swirl, place the divider set into the mold until it reaches the bottom. Spray the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help avoid soda ash.
• Let the soap stay in the mold for about 4-5 days.
• Remove the silicone liner from the wood mold. Pull the silicone liner away from the soap to release the airlock. Push the entire slab of soap out. If it's still quite soft, allow it to sit upside down for 1-2 days to harden.
• Gently remove the soap from the dividers. To prevent tearing, do not pull the dividers. Push the soap down, or slide the dividers up or down to remove the soap without tearing. Allow the soap to cure for 4-6 weeks, and enjoy!

The post Clover & Aloe Spin Swirl Cold Process on Soap Queen TV appeared first on Soap Queen.

The first step of this project is filling the details in each cavity with highly pigmented soap using the Injector Tool. This process does take some patience and a steady hand. I highly recommend having a spray bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol nearby. I like to spray the mold lightly with alcohol immediately before filling in the details. The alcohol helps the melted soap spread easily into the small cavities. Then spray with alcohol immediately after to help disperse any bubbles.

Temperature is also key in this project. After filling in the details, allow the green soap to fully cool and harden. Once you’re ready to pour the white soap on top, be careful that it’s not too hot. If the soap is much hotter than 130 ° F, it will melt the green pattern. Patience is key! To read more about temperature in melt and pour soap, check out the How to Avoid Burnt Melt & Pour blog post.

What You’ll Need:
Celtic Combo Limited Edition Mold
24 oz. White Melt and Pour
2 oz. Clear Melt and Pour
Evergreen Mica
.4 oz. Green Tea and Cucumber Fragrance Oil
Injector Tool
99% Isopropyl Alcohol

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ONE: Disperse 1 teaspoon of Evergreen Mica into 1 tablespoon of isopropyl alcohol and stir to combine. Set aside.

TWO: Chop and melt 2 ounces of Clear Melt and Pour Soap in the microwave using 3-5 second bursts. It’s easy to burn such a small amount of soap, so be careful not to overheat.

THREE: Add all of the dispersed Evergreen Mica into the melted clear soap and use a spoon to thoroughly mix in.

FOUR: Using the injector tool, begin to carefully fill in the details of each mold. This process does take some patience and a steady hand. I have found that cutting a small amount of the tip off the injector tool helps disperse a slightly larger amount of soap and prevents clogging. In addition, I recommend spritzing the mold with a few sprays of isopropyl alcohol before filling in the details. Doing so helps the soap spread throughout the mold details.

TIP: Have a cup of very hot water nearby when using the Injector Tool. The soap can cool and harden within the tool, which will clog it. Immediately after using the Injector Tool, clear out the tool in the hot water.

FIVE: Continue filling the mold details with green soap. If necessary, reheat the soap in the microwave using 3 second bursts. If the soap leaks out of the details, allow it to dry and harden, and use the Clean Up Tool to clean up any mistakes. Once all the details are filled, allow the green soap to fully cool and harden.

SIX: Chop and melt 24 ounces of white melt and pour soap in the microwave using 30 second bursts. Once fully melted, add .4 ounces of Green Tea and Cucumber Fragrance Oil and stir to thoroughly combine. Allow the soap to reach a temperature of 125 ° F or below. If the soap is too hot when poured, it will melt the green details. Once the soap has cooled, spray the mold cavities with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help the layers stick. Pour the soap into each cavity and spritz the top with alcohol to help disperse any bubbles.

Allow the soap to fully cool and harden in the mold. To remove, press the back of each cavity with your palm to release the air lock. Enjoy! Curious how to wrap soap? I’ve got a video for just that here. Wrap the soap in plastic wrap before use to help prevent glycerin dew. Learn more about glycerin dew and how to prevent it here.

How are you celebrating St. Patrick’s Day? 

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Celtic Combination Melt and Pour Tutorial

These celtic melt and pour soaps are made with the lovely Evergreen Mica, and smell incredibly fresh.

Course Melt and Pour

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Celtic Combination Mold
• 24 oz. White Melt and Pour
• 2 oz. Clear Melt and Pour
• Evergreen Mica
• .4 oz. Green Tea and Cucumber Fragrance Oil
• Injector Tool
• Isopropyl Alcohol

Instructions

• Disperse 1 teaspoon of Evergreen Mica into 1 tablespoon of isopropyl alcohol and stir to combine. Set aside.
• Chop and melt 2 ounces of Clear Melt and Pour Soap in the microwave using 3-5 second bursts. It’s easy to burn such a small amount of soap, so be careful not to overheat.
• Add all of the dispersed Evergreen Mica into the melted clear soap and use a spoon to thoroughly mix in.
• Using the injector tool, begin to carefully fill in the details of each mold. This process does take some patience and a steady hand. I have found that cutting a small amount of the tip off the injector tool helps disperse a slightly larger amount of soap and prevents clogging. In addition, I recommend spritzing the mold with a few sprays of isopropyl alcohol before filling in the details. Doing so helps the soap spread throughout the mold details.

  TIP: Have a cup of very hot water nearby when using the Injector Tool. The soap can cool and harden within the tool, which will clog it. Immediately after using the Injector Tool, clear out the tool in the hot water.
• Continue filling the mold details with green soap. If necessary, reheat the soap in the microwave using 3 second bursts. If the soap leaks out of the details, allow it to dry and harden, and use the Clean Up Tool to clean up any mistakes. Once all the details are filled, allow the green soap to fully cool and harden.
• Chop and melt 24 ounces of white melt and pour soap in the microwave using 30 second bursts. Once fully melted, add .4 ounces of Green Tea and Cucumber Fragrance Oil and stir to thoroughly combine. Allow the soap to reach a temperature of 125 ° F or below. If the soap is too hot when poured, it will melt the green details. Once the soap has cooled, spray the mold cavities with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help the layers stick. Pour the soap into each cavity and spritz the top with alcohol to help disperse any bubbles.
• Allow the soap to fully cool and harden in the mold. To remove, press the back of each cavity with your palm to release the air lock. Enjoy! Wrap the soap in plastic wrap before use to help prevent glycerin dew. Learn more about glycerin dew and how to prevent it here.

The post Celtic Melt and Pour Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.